For those of you who do Model 70 trigger jobs, what is the lowest you will cut down the trigger sear before resorting to other things in order to remove the creep from a Model 70 trigger. In what order do you usually go after cutting down the sear height?

I don't cut down at all; I have another method but, for personal reasons, can't reveal it here.

Jim

I cut them to .006".

quote:

Originally posted by Masterifleman:
I cut them to .006".

1. How do you cut them.
2. Do you use a feeler guage to measure, or some other method.
3. What do you do next if .006 isn't enough to get rid of the creep.

The hump on the trigger is ground/stoned to .006" with a slight forward rake so that the sear doesn't drag over it when it breaks. Both the sear and the trigger should be stoned with a ceramic stone so that the mating edges are square in contact and very smooth. Over travel and weight of pull are taken up by the spring and two locking nuts where the trigger attempts to make contact with the action at the rear. The Model 70 trigger IMO, is the best and easiest factory trigger to work on and make crisp and clean.

Sorry, I use a depth mike to measure the distance and as long as the mating surfaces of the trigger and sear are square where they contact, and at .006", there won't be any creep. Also, in the newer Mod. 70's, there is sometimes a problem with side play in the trigger and slop beteen the pin holding it in the receiver and differences between the width of the trigger and the slot where it rides in the receiver. This can be taken up by carefully drilling the trigger and the receicer pin holes and using a larger pin to produce the least amount of slop without making it too tight and making shims to take out the side play. I would shim the sides of the trigger by measuring the difference in the slot to the width of the trigger with feeler gauges and then taking some shim stock about .002" less and drilling a hole in it and cutting it to size. This will remove most or all of the side play and slop from the trigger. I would re-drill as a last resort.

Sorry about not answering all of your questions. I use a depth mike to measure the heighth. As for the creep, if the the trigger and sear contact surfaces are square and polished and the contact is no more than .006", the only other thing that is needed is to have a slight forward rake on the trigger contact surface so that the sear won't drag over it. Another problem with the newer Mod. 70's is that there is a lot of sideplay in the trigger. That is caused when the slot the trigger is pinned into is much larger that the width of the trigger and/or the hole in the trigger is much larger than the pin. The easiest and safest way to fix that is to measure the difference in the width of the slot and the thickness of the trigger where it is pinned into the receiver. Take shimstock about .002" less that that difference, drill a hole in it slightly larger that the pin and put it between the trigger and the slot when you pin it in. That will remove all or most of the side play. Unless there is a horrendous difference in the pin diameter and the hole, I wouldn't mess with trying to put a larger pin in by drilling the receiver. You're getting into dicy territory there. All of this can be aleviated by replacing the trigger with a Jewell or a Timney.

Ooops, thought I lost my second post!

Like Jim Kobe I won't cut a sear but I might square it up with a hone, cut the corners for less contact, and polish it...

If I can get a 3.5 lb. trigger that breaks clesn then thats all I want on one of my DG game rifles...

My lighter rifles in M-70 like 30-06 have 3 lb. triggers that break clean, but I have not cut them..

I have had no trouble getting 3 lbs. on any of them...

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Like Jim Kobe I won't cut a sear but I might square it up with a hone, cut the corners for less contact, and polish it...

If I can get a 3.5 lb. trigger that breaks clesn then thats all I want on one of my DG game rifles...

My lighter rifles in M-70 like 30-06 have 3 lb. triggers that break clean, but I have not cut them..

I have had no trouble getting 3 lbs. on any of them...

I assume that by "breaks clean" you mean no creep. I am very familiar with the 70 trigger. There are two mating surfaces regarding the sear. If you don't cut one or the other you will not eliminate creep. If you roll the edges you will get a negative sear contact and the gun will go off without pulling the trigger.

My point is this. I have shot other 70s with absolutely NO CREEP. But I don't want to take anymore off the bottom sear contact and yet the gun still has considerable creep. So, I am assuming that the next step is to stone the top sear contact. Is that correct?

Yes, very sharp and it is not 90 deg as you can see, closer to about 50 deg. Once the surfaces are absolutely flat, polish very smooth with a very fine stone. You can take that same very fine stone and "break" the edge of that angle but only enough to take any burr off.