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Removing solder that when were it ought notta
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I thought I was going to report on a neat way to remove errant silver solder, but after putting the cold blue on, I realized it wasn't so slick.

I silversoldered a barrel band swivel on last night, and had a few errant blobs on the barrel. First thing was to swab it with steel wool, but all that did was make a big very thin application of the solder, oh crap. Then I put some flux on the steel wool, and it looked like it sucked all the solder off. I thought, oh great! Then I used some baking soda to neutralize the flux.

All appeared well until putting on the blue, when I found it wouldn't take to the areas that appeared free of solder. There is a light blueing, but it is an obvious and large FU.

So, do I need to beadblast the whole thing again to assure all the solder is gone, or is there a better way?

 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Elbow grease!!

240 grit emery cloth wrapped around a small file (I use 4 inch and 6 inch files) lets you remove the solder without putting in heavy scratches. And a small chisel, about 1/8" wide, stuck in a file handle. Use this tool at the joint of the band, or the ramp, and the barrel, to gently carve the fillet of solder out. I make this chisel out of a 1/8" pin punch. After you do a couple of removal jobs you get the hang of the process and it is easy. The silver solder is nearly the same color as the white steel, and I use cold blue on a Q-tip to swab the area to see if more solder must be removed. I also use a piece of hard leather, about 1/4" thick, as a backer for the emery cloth. The leather will curve around the barrel and round surfaces of the ramp or band.

When you are in the soldering process, and still have the torch lit, use a small stainless steel brush to wipe excess solder off the barrel. A little heat on the excess solder, then a quick wipe with the brush. In the same motion, rap the brush on the vise or the bench and the solder will sling off. Then go to the sanding process above. The stainless brush I use looks like a stainless steel toothbrush with a wood handle.

Be sure to wash in hot water to kill the flux, it will rust the steel. And swab the bore out with bore cleaner, as the fumes from the flux migrate down the bore and cause rust.

After I am sure all the excess solder is removed, it is to the bead blast booth, then to the hot caustic tanks.

If you have a good fit of the ramp or band to the barrel, and tin both well, then sweat together, and remove the excess properly, after the hot bluing you will have to look very close to see the thin solder line.

------------------
Currently in Exile on the Beautiful Olympic Peninsula of Washington State.

Email Address is rifles@earthlink.net

Web site http://home.earthlink.net/~rifles/

 
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001Reply With Quote
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make yourself a brass chisel and scrape the solder off, it won't hurt the blue, just keep chiping away at it and keep the chisel as sharp as possible with soft brass...

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 42226 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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