THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Pale blue steel parts
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
posted
Now and then I see a custom rifle with a bright but pale blue part, usually a Mauser/Mod 70- typelong extractor. I have a question for youse smart guys.

Is this a heat treatment or a chemical process? Or both?

Thanks.


jmbn
Old and in the way
 
Posts: 283 | Location: Lakeview OR | Registered: 02 October 2013Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Heat treatment, or tempering colour.
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of D Humbarger
posted Hide Post
Heat. Brownells has the salts.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of dpcd
posted Hide Post
I have heat blued a lot of parts like screws and sights. You have to limit it to parts that won't be affected by temps up to 500 degrees; the chart above shows that. Msuser bolt stop springs are a popular blue item.
The technique is to polish the part, and heat it, BUT, DO NOT heat it until it is blue; if you do, it will keep on turning colors and seconds later you will be looking at a gray part because the blue color will disappear. So, heat it slowly and sneak up (technical terms here), on blue. then stop.
Oil. I have also quenched in oil, but that is smelly and messy and not necessary. You aren't heat treating it, you are just coloring it.
 
Posts: 17386 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of richj
posted Hide Post
I've used Express or Belgian blue on parts. takes longer for the water to boil than it does to blue the parts.

boil water

dunk
coat with chemical
repeat as desired.

The light color shroud is the same bluing as the bolt handle..but the shroud is probably harder steel. (pilkington every 4 hours and boil in between. about 4-5 times)

The other shrould looks like it's not done. Herters type belgiam express blue. takes about 15 minutes.



 
Posts: 6526 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Just to avoid confusion, the answer to the OP’s question has nothing to do with any kind of rust bluing.
The blue colour on extractors etc is produced by heat, usually by Potassium Nitrate salt bath.
But polished steel heated by any means to 555 deg.F will turn blue.
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Thanks- I'll try it.

I've rust blued several barrels with good results. I assume the heat treatment does nothing for rust prevention.


jmbn
Old and in the way
 
Posts: 283 | Location: Lakeview OR | Registered: 02 October 2013Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of dpcd
posted Hide Post
No, heat bluing is still bare steel and has to be oiled.
Here is a North West Trade Gun that I built (built as a .58 cal rifle because I have no use for guns), with a heat blued lock. It has faded a bit. Note the Fox, a feature of NW trade guns; the Indians liked to see those.
 
Posts: 17386 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
I don't mess around with Nitre bluing salts anymore, I can get a nice blue on screw heads by careful heating with a propane torch. It takes less than 1 minute.

If you want to do critical parts like extractors, springs and larger parts then by all means use the salt bath method.
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Nice.
 
Posts: 1192 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
I've had good success with heating small parts in a ladle sitting on top of my lead melt in my lead pot.
I have a PID temperature control on my pot and I find that I can get better color control with multiple small parts at one time.
 
Posts: 111 | Location: Brownstown, PA | Registered: 04 January 2022Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
That's all pretty interesting, especially metal's screw heads. Going to try it. Learn something every day. Well, some days.


jmbn
Old and in the way
 
Posts: 283 | Location: Lakeview OR | Registered: 02 October 2013Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Ive seen barreled actions with a "light blue" rust blue, a silver blue like the old REm 721 and 722 and it last forever..I recall a well know bluer who gives you that option, well I don't recall but his name starts with a W dammit he does wonderful work at about $300 or there abouts.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42226 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
I really like that browned barrel's contrast to the lock!

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
No, heat bluing is still bare steel and has to be oiled.
Here is a North West Trade Gun that I built (built as a .58 cal rifle because I have no use for guns), with a heat blued lock. It has faded a bit. Note the Fox, a feature of NW trade guns; the Indians liked to see those.
 
Posts: 3837 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia