Last night I screwed my Sako L491 barreled action onto its pillars and into copious quantities of bedding compound. Now I can't get the forward action screw loose. Every thing was coated with release agent, but obviously, I forced some epoxy into the threads when I inserted the screw and tightened the action. I've already popped the screw driver out of the screw head slot twice trying to break it lose.

What should I do next?

Thanks,

Jordan

P.S. This is a Sako wood stock.

Try holding a soldering iron on the screw head for several minutes and then try to remove it. The heat sould cause the epoxy to let go of the screw.
Ray

If heat doesn't work, try freezing it for a day or so and then use an impact driver. Most epoxies become brittle at temperatures below zero. This is the proscribed method for removing barreled actions from "glued in" target stocks. It probably won't work with Brownels Acraglass gel, since it is filled with a soft material.

the soldering iron will work, but it will take LOTS of minutes...

the epoxy will get soft with the heat, so try on for 5 minutes, off for 1, on for 5, off for 1, about 4 times, then try to turn the screw WITH A WELL FITTING SCREWDRIVER

I would go so far, as just before I tried to turn it, to rap the head of the screwdriver with a mallet a time or three...

if that doesn't work, you can freeze it, and tap it, leaving it in the coldest setting in your freezer over night, at least...

and, if THAT doesn't work email me

jeffe

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the help.

Jordan

As others have pointed out, freezing may work.

I got a glued in action out of the stock that way last year. Luckily, I had access to a walk-in, and left it in there overnight. The next day it popped out after two quick raps.

Good luck!

Jordan,what kind of release agent did you use?

Jordan, ol' buddy,next time....anytime for that matter......use a pair stockmaker's handscrews, and save probable damage to your valuable L461 factory screws and trigger guard assembly. Brownells sells them....for Sako, Rem, Win, etc.

Hope this helps.....
Kevin Gullette

I used Brownell's aerosol release agent.

Kevin, how do those action inletting screws work? I used the factory screws 'cause I wanted to tighten the action down onto the pillars and squeeze out any excess epoxy. How should I do it next time?

Thanks,

Jordan

Stockmaker's handscrews duplicate the factory screws all the way up to the top, then they continue on with a T-handle that allows you to get them out with just a turn of the wrist. Brownells sells 'em, just $12.40 a pair. Search "stockmaker handscrew" from their homepage. They also have action guide screws that do not have the T-handle. These are for guiding the action in and out of the stock while you are inletting it; they ensure the action goes back into the same place every time and save wear on your factory screws. They are about $6 a pair, if I remember correctly.

But to your immediate problem... If all else fails: C4.

[ 11-19-2003, 08:59: Message edited by: rootbeer ]

Jordan,
How ya been? Here's a little bedding tip that just might save ya some grief next time.

Before you insert your action screw into the pillar to snug it down, take a Q-Tip and push up thru the pillar with it. This helps clear the way for your action screw. The excess compound will ooze out the lug recess, just use plenty of release agent and when it hardens the glob can be plucked out.

MtnHtr

Thanks all for helping to save me from myself. What are friends for, right? Rootbeer, do you know any home recipes for C4? Its a little scarce in my neck of the woods!!

Thanks all,

Jordan [aka, the Village Gunsmithing Idiot]

Just a little advice for your next bedding job.

I cover the screws and the holes they screw into in release agent. Then I put vasoline on the screws and in the holes.

To help keep your screwdriver "locked" into the screw head when you try to remove it again (after using some of the above great ideas), put some valve grinding compound on the bit. This will add extra traction to the bit.
Ron

Ok, after all that help, here is how you do it. You can try the heat or cold in conjunction with this but I don't think you will need to. With the barelled action sitting upside down flat on the drill press table, on the tapered integral scope bases, take one of those hex bit screwdriver inserts on the correct size, slip a correct size combination wrench over it and put it into the chuck of your drill press. Push the insert into the screw head and hold it down with the handle of your press with enough pressure to keep it from backing out on you and put the barrel against the post on the press to keep it from spinning. Grab the wrench and turn it counterclockwise and screw out the offending screw. This has never failed to work for me as long as I was sure I had used release agent. Next time, use Johnson's paste wax. It is neater and not as messy and works just as well and is cheaper. If all this don't work, drill it out, you can get new screws from Brownell's.

Jim

[ 11-20-2003, 17:59: Message edited by: Jim Kobe ]

I have a small butane torch for heating...Heat is best...I chuck the gun up in my drill press table, have a screwdriver I cut off and fitted and force it down into the slot and lock the drill press...Heat the screwdriver with my small torch or even a cutting torch turned low and use hand pressure to turn the screw out...its a snap to do and requies little time and effort..It doesn't take a lot of heat to melt epoxy....

When I bed I use actions screws with the heads ground down. When I drop the barreled action into the stock the screws are already in the action.

I wrap about 2 turns of masking tape around the screws. One of the problems (which the tape solves) is that some screws are not perfectly round and hence the difficulty that is often encounted when you come to removing the screws.

Mike