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A good Checkering Starter's Kit?
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Do any of you have suggestions for a good brand of Starter Tool Kit for checkering? I've seen a few in various catalogs but need help. And maybe a good How-To Checkering book?


Lance

Lance Larson Studio

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Posts: 933 | Location: Casa Grande, AZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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No one out there ever tried to do it yourself?


Lance

Lance Larson Studio

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Posts: 933 | Location: Casa Grande, AZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I bought a Dem-Bart from Brownell's. I got along with it pretty good. I tried to make my own pattern. That didn't work out as good. I am going to attempt it again soon. Waiting on the blanks to be turned and inleted.


As a general rule, people are nuts!
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Posts: 2095 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 02 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Although I have not done any checkering, I have watched the video by Joe Balakie (sp) on gunstock finishing and gunstock checkering. Both are absolutely excellent and would be worth your while to watch.

If you don't want to purchase them from Brownells you can rent them on DVD.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Get a Brownells catalog and look at the Dembart kits. I have kind of accumulated my own "set". One of the Dembart sets thought should be great and you can always buy extra cutters and handles. Just be sure you start out with good habits. Once you get started it is hard to change your "form" or at least it is for me.
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 08 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I do not like the dembart cutters, in my experience they dull way to fast. If I remember correctly I have been using "W.E. Brownell" cutters that I picked up years ago. They are not affiliated with Brownells btw. I much prefer the doiron carbide cutters but have found they are way too sharp when you get them, so dull them down before you start.

Chad
 
Posts: 85 | Location: Oklahoma | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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To start out I would buy:

Gunline S-3 cutter 20 LPI
Gunline 90deg single cutter
Gunline 90deg finish cutter
Monty Kennedy Jointer
3 Brownells ClearVeiw Handles
One of the Simpler D'Trellville patterns.

-Make a cradle if you want one.

layout with the single cutter then use the 3 line cutter to space with making one new line at a time the other 2 guiding the cuts. The D'Trellville patterns make your layout straight and easy and look good too. It's often mentioned to start at 18lpi but a couple people I've worked with had a lot of trouble witht he larger diamonds and found 20lpi to be a lot easier for the to start with.
The Video's previously mentioned are good as is the Monty Kennedy book on Checkering and Stock carving. The Roy Dunlap book has some good info on checkering but some of the patterns he shows are a little wild for my taste.
Make a 3 to 1 diamond out of clear plastic and lay out a 3" by 1" diamond on a flat piece of scrap walnut. Do a couple on flat scraps until you can make pointed diamonds without too much runover. Then move to a scrap stock before you try it for real on anything you care about.
I'm not the greatest in the world but I've been able to do a couple I'm not ashamed to show:






Good luck, have fun but remember to relax and be patient................DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I wouldn't be ashamed to show those either!!!!!!! cheers


Lance

Lance Larson Studio

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Posts: 933 | Location: Casa Grande, AZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by djpaintles:
To start out I would buy:

Gunline S-3 cutter 20 LPI
Gunline 90deg single cutter
Gunline 90deg finish cutter
Monty Kennedy Jointer
3 Brownells ClearVeiw Handles
One of the Simpler D'Trellville patterns.

-Make a cradle if you want one.


I concur with dj's above list. I might add a veiner for cleaning up diamonds in tight areas. Most you find are "palm held" models, but I prefer the type Pilkington used to sell. It has a round wooden ball rather than a handle. It fits right in the web of your hand between thumb and forefinger. With your thumb and forefinger positioned down the shaft and near the cutting edge.......the opposite hand's forefinger braces against the cutting thumb keep from "skating".

I also prefer the WE Brownells cutters. They cut both ways. When pushing a cut up to the border, you can stop short and then take little "bites" as you pull back from the border. Really aids control and avoids over-runs.

Top is a Brownell's clearview handle, middle is my Pilkington "heavy duty" handle, then the Pilkington veiner. The Pilkington handle is very stout......I cut pretty deep when spacing.

GV

 
Posts: 768 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: 18 January 2001Reply With Quote
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In my early twenties - a very long time ago - I checkered a few stocks. Discovered that it was basically rather simple and that I could actually do as well as the professionals, BUT it took me something like ten times as long as it took them. So I stopped.
 
Posts: 1233 | Registered: 25 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks to all for the equipment opinions, feedback, and lists. I will take your advice and dive into my first project.


Lance

Lance Larson Studio

lancelarsonstudio.com
 
Posts: 933 | Location: Casa Grande, AZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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