A couple of years ago, I went wild researching spar varnish for stock finishing. Specifically, I want a durable good looking "close to the wood" finish that won't easily scratch or chip when bumped -not a built up plastic coating. As a woodworker, it's better if I can tell that it's wood under there for sure...

The best I can come up with is a polymerized tung oil based spar varnish. Spar varnish often only has UV protectants and mildewcides added to regular varnish and I can't imagine my rifle seeing that much sun...

Personally, I recommend Waterlox Marine or High Gloss. This tung oil varnish has a very high proportion of solids (the stuff that stays in the wood after the solvent has evaporated). You can get sample packets if you are lucky. Thin it well and soak your stock and continue to soak it for a day or two especially the butt. After a month of drying, file, sand, and/or scrape the stock back down to the wood. Then top coat- I've used Man O'War Semi Gloss with good sucess as a topcoat- one very thin ragged on coat. This recommendation is for a new previously unfinished stock.

Get the gloss regardless of what you choose- the matte finishes have silica in them which eat checkering tool edges and obscure the depth of the grain. Also get the smallest can possible and don't use old varnish.

Several of us know that it really doesn't matter what you use, it is how you apply it and even off the 'Mart shelf cheap polyurethane will protect your wood for years to come but might look less than "professional".

By the way, anyone heard of "Jack Tar Spar Varnish" - supposed to have the highest proportion of solids possible..?

Ray,

"Any finish" will not work fine. There are finishes that do not produce a decent product. Pure tung oil is one of them and that is why I asked if he was using pure tung oil. It is particularly poor if you live in a humid climate. Linseed oil is another, it may look good but the protection to the wood is just not there. It may have been the best we had 100 years ago but finishes have come a long way since then.

Minwax Helsman Clear Semigloss Spar Urethane

I have not tried this brand on gunstocks but used it for a finish on baseball bats made of ash and maple. I found it very durable to withstand the constant abuse given to the bats. It stood up well to the abrasive clay/sand mixture of baseball diamonds and was impervious to the moisture from the grass. It dried a light amber and did not flake when dented if used with multiple coats. Used a mix of 50/50 with mineral spirits. I guess if thinned a bit more, it would soak well into the wood.
Bob

Thanks Guys.

Customstox Yes im useing deft danish oil tung oil , it has urathane resins and drys pretty fast.

I will look for the brands you guys me posted. Useing the staight deft oil takes for ever to fill the grain.

Marine Spar varnish is a good filler and I have had good results with it, I always used it with some other modified poly urathane finish however...

Fact is about any finish works fine if properly done...I think some folks use one finish better than others, why I have no idea...I know I can get a really great, durable and waterprof finish with plain old Flecto out ot the Yellow can, others cannot...Properly used Trueoil is a great finish...I use different finishes all the time in a search for the perfect finish, one that is quick, durable, weatherproof, won't craze, easy to patch, so far close but no cigar