I just ordered a hogue overmolded stock for my remington 700 in 7mm-08. It is for the standard contour barrels and is pillar bedded. I was just wondering about your opinions of these stocks. My budget won't allow me to spend the money for the higher dollar stocks and this looked like a good deal for a better stock than the plastic sps stock that is on the rifle now. I hope I see a little better cosistency in accuracy. Maybe a little later I will have it glass bedded also. Your opinions are appreciated.

Not sure how they can accurately pillar bed a stock and have it fit every receiver...but I guess you will be the judge of that when you shoot the rifle.

Rick, they're more for preventing stock crush than fitting the receiver. You can skim-bed them just like an H-S Precision but I don't think you'll gain much.

RB, I think they're among the very best of the injection molded stocks. On par with the factory Savage of similar construction and those guns can shoot!

You can certainly get more stock for more money but for a factory rifle with a factory barrel for hunting big game (or small) you have chosen pretty wisely.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
Rick, they're more for preventing stock crush than fitting the receiver. You can skim-bed them just like an H-S Precision but I don't think you'll gain much.

The guy said he was not going to glass bed anything now, and that he was expecting better consistency in accuracy...so I assumed he felt as though the “one size fits all†pillar bedding alone was going to do that for him, and I doubt that he will notice much difference until he takes it a few steps further along.

Well, IIRC pillars were invented to stop crushing and bedding is an altogether different issue to provide even stress on the receiver so you are right in that regard; the pillars will not and cannot bed the entire action. But if they are of the same height (level to the action) then the screws can be tightened with a minimum of distortion because the contact area is roughly similar. If the pillars are cut flat, that is even better as the contact area then is virtually identical. I don't remember how Hogue approaches that issue.

In the end, on a non-bedded stock such as this, I think forend pressure and/or free floating will have much more influence on the particular rifle.

Either way, all I was saying is that he made a good choice based on his criteria.

tiggertate,

No argument from me brother!

I started making my own stainless steel pillars awhile back and I never put a radius on them. I turn them flat on both ends and let the Devcon bedding create the perfect radius to mate with the receiver. The round bottomed receivers only make contact with the pillars themselves at 6 and 12 o’clock along their long axis.

The Hogue overmolded stock has an internal aluminum block that is similar to the HS Precision. It extends forward through the forearm and rearward into the pistolgrip area. Very rigid stock but, as stated earlier, best results can be expected when skim bedded over the block.

There are two versions, that being the higher priced by about $100. The lesser priced version just has pillars. Something for eveyone, I guess.

Back atcha, Rick

The factory stock that came on the rifle is the "sps" synthetic stock and it has the pressure pad on the very fore end. The rifle shoots great for a factory rifle (.6" three shot groups cooling between each shot). However I noticed over several trips to the range that the point of impact changes drastically each time I take it down. I tested my thoery that the pressure pad was not applying even pressure by taking it apart at the range the same day and cleaning and firing groups. Each time in the same conditions with the stock bolts torqued to 65"lbs as recommended, the point of impact would move over one inch per assembly. I am hoping that the free floating stock will cure some of this and keep at least the same group size if not better. If it doesnt I will bed it to about one inch in front of the recoil lug. Maybe this can shed light on why I chose the stock. The pillars will give the same point of rest for the action each time it is taken appart, right???? Thanks again.

Charles,

Unless you have an aftermarket steel triggerguard I would be real hesitant to use that much torque. Just my opinion.

I think that torque secification is in the owners manual. Either way I read it in a book about accurizing also. 65 inch pounds isnt that much only like 5.5 foot pounds. I appreciate all the feed back you guys have given. I think for a factory rifle it doesnt matter whether you torque em or just get em good and snug by feel. I just did that trying to eliminate a variable. Rick, if you do have the torque spec for the factory floor plate I would appreciate you letting me know.

There shouldn't be a lot of reason to take it that far down very often. If you have an aluminium or plastic trigger guard, the tapered-head Remington screws change the hole dimension each time you torque them. That's why the military switched to steel bottom metal and flat-shouldered screws on the sniper rifles.

At a minimum you should either get flat shouldered socket head screws, mill the screw holes flat and get steel washers to take the wear and tear or quit taking it down so often. Most of my guns come out of the stock once or twice every 3 or 4 years for inspection and cleaning/oiling. I live on the Gulf Coast 5 miles from the beach and never had one rust in between those intervals.

i have an overmolded with the bedding block on a 6mm rem i had built i personally wouldn't buy another one, i don't like the rubber texture as much as i thought iwould, h-s or mcmillan for me.