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First time rust blue
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You pros will obviously be bored stiff if you read this, but those of you (like me until yesterday) who are contemplating rust bluing a barrel for the first time might find it informative. I used the formula from RUST BLUE (www.rustblue.com) and followed the directions from the website in addition to comments that I had printed out, mostly from this forum. I had previously blued some small parts; three grip caps for stocks that I had made and they turned out fine. I did those on the kitchen stove, in a stainless pot with a colander, but for the barrel I set up a 3" plastic pipe, also per instructions. I found a cardboard box an inch longer than the barrel and notched the ends, then stuck an extension in each end; a fat pen in the chamber end and a 1/4" dowel in the muzzle. Obviously you need to be careful with the muzzle. These supported the barrel, for part of the cleaning and for spreading the bluing solution.

I scrubbed and cleaned the barrel per the instructions on line, wiped it down and set it in the sun to dry. Brought it in, set it on the kitchen counter, and applied the solution, using cotton swabs about an inch in diameter The solution went on very smoothly and I was able to apply it with 4 strokes the length of the barrel, being careful to not let it dribble at the ends. I let the first coat dry for two hours as instructed, then applied another coat. When dry (10 min.) I carefully dropped it into the pipe, hanging it from a 4" piece of shoe lace, fastened to the threads with a hose clamp, all hanging on a dowel notched into the top end of the pipe. Worked like a charm. I put the pipe and its flange on a pot of simmering water for the proscribed ten minutes, let cool, and pulled it out of the pipe. It was covered with a lite coat of very fine rust, which came of very easily with some 000 steel wool, leaving it black. A problem was that the chamber end was a bit splotchy, which I think was from the lube/coolant used for threading the barrel that had somehow migrated to where it shouldn't be. I should have anticipated this and scrubbed off the threads before the main cleaning. So after carding with 000 steel wool, which went very quickly, I took the barrel once again to the kitchen sink and scrubbed the hell out of the splotchy area with the steel wool, hot water, and soap. I let dry, applied another double coat, and re-steamed, this time for 20 min because the rust wasn't totally even the first time. When cool, I carded the barrel, this time with hot water in the sink, scrubbed it with soap and hot water, let it dry overnite and just finished it by rubbing down with CRC silicone spray. Beautiful, and the splotches were gone.

The rifles that I use for sage rats and prairie gods have stainless barrels because they stay cooler in the sun, but on my hunting rifles I like blued steel and walnut.

Hope this helps someone.

Jerry, AKA Bubba's Gunsmithing and Zygonomic Therapy.


jmbn
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Posts: 283 | Location: Lakeview OR | Registered: 02 October 2013Reply With Quote
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Sounds like you did a great job and learned a few things along the way (and shared your tips with those of us who are uneducated on the matter).

I'll have to try that sometime.

Zeke
 
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Which Rust Blue formula did you use Jerry?
 
Posts: 522 | Registered: 07 June 2013Reply With Quote
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I used the American. It came out totally black.


jmbn
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Perfect.
 
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I'm happy. Sounds like you did a great job. Thanks for posting.

Bob
www.rustblue.com
 
Posts: 3872 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I would never shoot a prairie god
 
Posts: 173 | Location: Texas | Registered: 01 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Only found in California. Here they are dyslexic rats.
 
Posts: 17441 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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And here it's illegal to shoot them unless you use copper.


jmbn
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quote:
Originally posted by jerrymontgomery:
I used the American. It came out totally black.



Good deal!
Bobster's American has done good by me as well.
I re-blued my Grandpa's old Stevens double and it came out black as coal. I love that.


Doug Wilhelmi
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(Formerly known as Dulltool17)
 
Posts: 505 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 12 July 2021Reply With Quote
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Better living thru chemistry!


jmbn
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I personally like to see a "black" with a bluish tone..Seems like a hit or miss deal. Maybe just the parent metal? Any thoughts?
 
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If I get anywhere close to Pilkingtons, I'll be very ahppy.
 
Posts: 6552 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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It is a function of metal polish and strength of solution. The Brits were able to get a nice bright bluish/black by many passes of a weak solution. The blue color is actually an optical illusion. The higher the polish the bluer it looks to the eye. So you don't want an aggressive solution which will etch more. You can dilute my American, Swiss, or British formulas up to 3:1 with distilled water and get this effect.

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Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
I personally like to see a "black" with a bluish tone..Seems like a hit or miss deal. Maybe just the parent metal? Any thoughts?
 
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