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It wasn't the "hot melt" stuff I found abusurd, just yet another bedding material, but the cross bolt comments left his shorts flying on the flag pole. ______________________ Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. | |||
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Bill - Your second quoted paragraph above seems for the moment (to me) to be a good reason to NOT use hot melt. You obviously are more aware than the average Joe that benchrest stock bedders often do as good an epoxy bedding job as possible, let it fully set, then fill any shrinkage by putting in a second layer of epoxy often referred to as a "Paint Coat". Because the paint coat is so thin to begin with (.001" or so) it has almost zero shrinkage as IT sets. Just how big is 1/4 of 1% of .001"? I suspect the paint coat of epoxy may even shrink less than hot melt, as it wasn't expanded by any heat before beginning to set. No heat required to assemble or disassemble, just works fine cold. And the rifle is still easy to assemble/disassemble to handle any following problems with triggers, etc. Anyway, if you try it, please post a report here as to the joys and terrors of working with it, how well the rifles shot, and most of all, whether you think it merited the additional effort. Best wishes, AC | |||
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Outstanding, Steve! John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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So, is Assclown back? | |||
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Headache: Isn't that what I said in the first post? Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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OK, this is a stupid question maybe but I'd sure like to know whether the recoil lug of the action sits against the crossbolt or the crossbolt just runs through the stock and tries to hold the stock together that way. Anyone have a sketch of exactly how a proper crossbolt is installed? Blair "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | |||
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Where did Henry go? I thought he was having fun. ______________________ Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. | |||
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Jim, Yes, you did say that way back in the first post. Sorry about that. I got lost in all the other post. clowdis, The cross bolts just run through the stock. Usually you try to put it in the center of the wood mass. The front bolt between the magazine well and recoil lug area and the rear bolt between the magazine well and the cut out for the trigger system. Headache | |||
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I position mine so there is a little clearance behind the recoil lug. When I install them, I thread the hole in the stock insert the 1/4-20 threaded rod smeared with epoxy. The ends are drilled and tapped to accept a flat head allen screw and this is inserted and tightened through a half inch hole in the stock, I put ebony plugs in the outside and when glass bedded later the whole operation is epoxied together. Clear enough? Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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Lest anyone think "hot melt" bedding is the latest, greatest thing potentially to come down the block, it has been used in the rifle-making industry for at least the last 24 years. In 1984, one of the selling points for the then latest versions of the Winchester Model 70s, as listed in Rifle magazine ads, was "thermoplastic" bedding. Thermoplastic is one of the many "hot melt" synonyms. | |||
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AC, My one concern with the use of the "Hot Melt" method was regarding the difference in dimension of the hot receiver and he cooled down one. So, before i jumped in and glopped hot glue all over my latest "F" class rifle, I decided to check and see just what the variation was. At room tenperature, the diameter of the receiver ring was 1.3581". I then heated it up to about 180 degrees (let it sit in hot water. Temp checked with my bluing thermometer). The new dimension was 1.3594". In other words, the receiver grew about .0013" in diameter. The length and the distance between the screws, would have grown probably five times that amount. My decision was that the "hot melt" idea is not ideal for a precision rifle so I won't be trying it anytime soon. If one wants a quick and cheesy method of taking up the slack, he can use five minute epoxy to better effect. Of course, the ideal would be to do a good glass bedding job in the first place. The hot glue might actually be a usable technique but epoxy is better. Hot glue is probably better used for scrapbooking and such. Regards, Bill. | |||
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Thanks, Bill - Your practical, real world, test has confirmed my own gut feelings, which I was trying to resist in the name of remaining "reasonable" on the subject until I got more facts. Your information brings a "beyond value" consideration to the question, I think. To your priceless info, I'll add this tidbit...various bedding epoxies are claimed to shrink from 1/4 to 1/2 of 1% when setting. So I suppose that after a first, careful competent bedding, we may end up with a shrinkage gap or gaps of up to .001" or .002". Logically then, the next question is "What will happen when we put on a "paint coat" to fill the gap(s)?" (That's why I asked "how much is 1/4 of 1% of .001"?" in one of my previous posts.) Well, according to my calculator, 1/2 of 1% of .001" is 0.000005", or 5/1-millionths of 1" shrinkage. So I guess 1/4 of 1% of .001" would also be about half that, or 0.0000025" shrinkage. Of course if our gap was initially .002" the shrinkage would be doubled. Either way, I suspect that after firing a couple of rounds there would be no shrinkage at all even with currently common epoxies because the slightly heated action would expand to fill that not-so-humongous space. So I agree with you, why bother with hot melt? | |||
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Jim/Headache, Thanks, Blair "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | |||
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