I'm fast approaching that wonderful moment when we first apply finish to a newly shaped stock.

But I've been procrastinating on one area: the tang behind the bridge.

I had this blank cut from a pattern, so I didn't end up with more than a few thousandths wood proud of the tang.

Not much left to sand down to new wood.

And there's still some grime left there, despite the fact that I've cleaned generously with acetone.

Has anyone here used oxalic acid?

I know of it as a strong wood bleach I used to clean the brightwork on the Mako.

Still, I believe Duane Wiebe uses it whisker his stocks.

Obviously, much dilute from the concentration I used on the boat.

I'm thinking of using the oxalic acid before I sand down the few remaining thousandths.

Any comments, or perhaps more importantly, experience with oxalic acid?

TIA,

flaco

Like you, I've used it, but never on walnut or a rifle stock. What kind of grime, grease, oil, inletting black? In my experience, it's doesn't do much as far as removing stains, ie. rust, oil or grease. I'd try some in the barrel channel and see what goes down.

I have used it quite a bit on furniture made from both oak and walnut. It works well for that and will raise the grain somewhat after it dries. I have only used it on a couple of gunstocks to remove water stains and it worked well for that also.

Craigster and Idared-

Here's Duane's post.

I'm in awe of his work, and if he's generous enough to share a little of his technique, I'm certainly going to take advantage of it.

Although with a little twist: While I'm sold on the Ship'n Shore sealer--I've already ordered it from Daly's--I intend to substitute Daly's Teak Oil, which I believe has been used by some of the better stockmakers on the forum, for Linseed oil.

I spoke with the tech guy at Daly's, and he said it would be okay to sand in the Sealer, and I'm going to try and use this to fill in the pores.

I'll also sand in the Teak Oil, as is advised on their instructions.

In the meantime, I'm hoping for a little expert advice on diluting the oxalic acid.

Thanks,

flaco

N.B. I guess I don't have to say that posts by guys like Duane Wiebe are what make these forums special. Thanks, gentlemen.

Flaco , I'm not familier with Japan or Colbalt driers. What is it and where can you get it.

Oh yea same with Oxalic acid.

Rick

flaco,

Thanks for linking Wiebe's post, I remember reading it back when but forgot about it. I think I'll try his/your method on my next stock. Be sure and show us some pics of your stock when done.

Rick-

With the exception of the two-part products, most of the those found in paint or hardware stores labeled "wood bleach" will be oxalic acid.

Check the label.

The japan drier can be found in most paint and hardware stores, too. (It's the potion that's added to linseed oil to make the commercial product dry.)

The cobalt drier is probably most likely to be found in art supply houses, as Duane suggests.

flaco