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"44" Obendorf M98K action for 8X68S?
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Picture of wildcat junkie
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Is the metalurgy of this action up to 63000psi loads in 8X68S?

The front receiver seemed plenty hard when I tried to scribe a line on it.

I will have it Rocwelled, what would be the proper ranges for the receiver and the bolt?
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
It was made during a time that time meant the (possible) survival of a nation. Every single short cut that *could* be taken, was.

And some that worked in the factories were hoping that rifle would blow up and kill the German holding it.

I figure that's bad Karma. [Smile]

[ 04-26-2003, 02:30: Message edited by: JBelk ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by JBelk:
It was made during a time that time meant the (possible) survival of a nation. Every single short cut that *could* be taken, was.

And some that worked in the factories were hoping that rifle would blow up and kill the German holding it.

I figure that's bad Karma. [Smile]

So jack, how does one tell? [Confused]

The workmanship on this one looks a hell of a lot better than the "44" "ce" that I have hammered with hot 8mm-06 Ackleys loads for over a thousand rounds.

I know you prefer pre "39" actions but don't you check them all out.

Should I use an 8X57 proof load ( say 55grs of Varget behind a 200gr Partition) tied to a spare tire with a string on the trigger? [Eek!]

We are not talking full blown custom here, but a good sound (poor man's) tool for big critters.

BTW: I used a spring loaded center punch on the front portion of the bottom lug recess as well as the bottom of the receiver just behind the recoil lug. The lug recess seems to be somewhat harder than the bottom of the receiver.

[ 04-26-2003, 03:00: Message edited by: wildcat junkie ]
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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WJ--

If you walked into my shop with that action and a barrel and a THOUSAND bucks to spend...you'd leave with all of it intact.

I have no control over what others do. [Smile]
 
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WJ-

You can buy a 1930's VZ24 with a cracked stock about anywhere for less than $70. Why take a chance?
 
Posts: 1238 | Location: Lexington, Kentucky, USA | Registered: 04 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Jack, are we talking about a BYF44 model 98 made for the 8x57 mauser cartridge or something else. I am not following.

Thanks.

[ 04-26-2003, 06:37: Message edited by: larrys ]
 
Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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larrys--

Re: BYF44 M-98

Everyone has their prejudices and that's one of mine. I just don't deal with many 43, 44, or 45 marked M-98s. I've done a couple G33/40s but I prefer the pre-(both)wars actions. They're better made and *I* feel better using them.
 
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I have seen a few of the C&R Russian captures (I have a 1939), they are pretty rough compared to the Czech VZ-24's.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Roger Rothschild:
I have seen a few of the C&R Russian captures (I have a 1939), they are pretty rough compared to the Czech VZ-24's.

And the VZ24s that I have seen were a helluva lot rougher than the byf44 in my possesion.
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
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The questions not whether it's rough. The question is whether it will hold together at 65K.
 
Posts: 1238 | Location: Lexington, Kentucky, USA | Registered: 04 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Wildcat, that is too bad, the VZ-24's I have are very nice indeed.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Well, according to jbelk, the M98 tends to "swell up" instead of "blow up" so I guess we'll have to see.

It seems that nobody can say for sure that it is a trash action, and since nobody seems to want to offer any information as to how to determine if it is, I guess I will proceed (with caution)

The weapon already is in a decent stock and has good sights. Other than opening up a 1904 Portuguese magazine and the reaming and opening up the bolt face I will have little invested over the original $150 and some time. If after thorough testing the piece is performing up to my expectations, I will do the bolt handle work 3 pos. safety, scope mounting etc. etc. First I just want to see if it works.

If this action fails, what type of failure will it be? Lug setback perhaps? I think it would take a real screw up to "grenade" it.

Case failure would probably be the worst case scenario, and that would yield about the same results in a VZ24 would it not?

Art S: I think 60kpsi is the realistic level I will be loading to if my information is correct.

Roger Rothchild: Maybe it's not that the VZ24s I've seen are so rough, maybe I got my hands on a real nice byf44.

Thanks for the input guys.

[ 04-26-2003, 23:31: Message edited by: wildcat junkie ]
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Wildcat,

Since this subject has come up repeatedly, I guess from now on I will have any m98 reheat treated by Blanchards. That way, at least you know.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Jack, thanks.
 
Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Roger beat me to it, I was about to suggest that you have the action re-heat treated, since that seems to be one of the big concerns about late war actions. Of course, I don't know how you'd tell if it had been over-cooked in the first place...

Re-heat treating by Blanchard's will run you $75, for the first action. $20 for each additional action. I wish there was some way that a few of us could pool actions, and bring our average cost down.

Todd
 
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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