I have learned a lot by reading the posts here and thought I would post a couple of pictures of jigs I made to work on removing pits, crests and such.
One of the problems I have had was how to hold the action still to get the best finish without moving it constantly in the vise. so I came up with these. I doubt I have invented anything new but they are new to me and are working very well.
I made them from 5/8 X 3 aluminum bar stock and 3/4 X 1 1/2 bar stock. I turned a mandrel for the action and lock it into the jig with two screws so I can turn it to any position, the other one I cut slots and drilled it to hold the action solid to work on it in the mill such as drilling scope mounting holes and such.

Rolland,

Good stuff, I see a lot of other applications as well. thanks for sharing

Those look mighty useful, Rolland. Are you hand-stoning the actions to remove pits, crests, etc., or are you using a surface grinder?

Clemson

Its all done by hand with hard and flex stones, I would like to have a surface grinder but no room in the shop.

The jig is up. Here is a Rem.700 action jig I made, thanks to Mr Bryant. A bolt welding jig and a 98 heat sink with through hole for gas/air

This should be the jig I use for holding barrels and bolts vertically in the mill. I have to hang the barrels over the edge of the table.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g83/Jkob60/Sako%20fix...lingfixture002-1.jpg

Jim
I like that idea hope you don't mind if I copy that idea. It solves a problem I have been mulling over.

Jim
I like that idea hope you don't mind if I copy that idea. It solves a problem I have been mulling over.

Feel free to do so. I sure beats the hell out of the setup Mark Stratton uses; "V"blocks clamped to an angle plate. I use the same bushings for the barrels that I use in my barrel vise. This is the cat's meow when you need to make a cut for an extractor.

Jim

Anyone have a picture of a bolt jig for the lathe?

Damn got so excited I posted twice oh well the meds will start working soon

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
This should be the jig I use for holding barrels and bolts vertically in the mill. I have to hang the barrels over the edge of the table.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g83/Jkob60/Sako%20fix...lingfixture002-1.jpg

Nice vise too

I use a nut, a bolt, some washers, and some shims all in a 6" Kurt vise to mill off the charging hump. Then I finish with a file.




My brother's mandrel:


My brother's inner C ring lapping tool, he made after I loaned him Kuhnhausen's book. There is valve grinding compound embedded in the brass disc. The rod is a ground pin in a reamed hole, and spins freely with light lubrication, but is slow with heavy lube. No side to side play can be felt. This is a way better fit than a turned rod in a drilled or bored hole.

Here's my jig for cutting extractor slots. It's a barrel vice bolted to an angle plate hanging off the back of my milling table.

Hopefully the picture works.

Rojelio

This is the fixture I use for making extractor cuts:

Malm,

How about a picture of the other side as well?

Thanks!

Extractor relief cut on a 91/30




Bull barrels will not fit trough my rotary table, and the 91/30 extractor relief cut must be made by rotating the bull barrel by hand. I make cut, stop, loosen the vise, rotate a few degrees, tighten the vise, repeat for 120 degrees, Note the mill vise stop clamped on the vise that is maintaining the axial position:




Scope rings to receiver welding fixture:

I have been looking at a milling attachment for my lathe. I think Malm likes his, he sure uses it an awful lot.

Palmgren makes a 300 and 400. I think the 400 is what he has.
I have a Palmgrem 8" rotary table that works nice. One of them things that sits for ever till you need it

Another way to skin the cat on the extractor cut:




Clemson

Opening up feed rails on an Enfield. I use the same fixture for milling off stripper clip humps on Mausers. The receiver can be turned and locked down in any position.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb280/rojelio0/MVC-024F.jpg

Rejelio,

To post a picture you can use the green utility at the top of the screen, or you can type [img] before the picture link and [/img] after the picture link.

Here is your picture of the upside down receiver on the mill:

question-

what prevents the action from turning on the mandrel, or the mandrel in the fixture from turning?



thanks.

Sorry, I just got back. The receiver is threaded onto the mandrel and the end of the mandrel is also threaded so a big locknut is jamming the receiver tight against the fixture. Once it's tightened down where you want it, it can't move. I'll try to get back with another picture from the other end.

Rojelio

Here's the other end. I hope the picture works this time.
Rojelio

appreciated, thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by gsp:
I have been looking at a milling attachment for my lathe. I think Malm likes his, he sure uses it an awful lot.

He does! I use the Model 250. If I need anything bigger I use my mill. I use the attachment with the lathe mainly for cutting extractor slots and radiusing (is that a word) sights, bases and ribs.

I can clamp it on the edge of my milling table and flip is sideways if I need to. I also use it clamped in my Kurt machine vise for machining other odd stuff. I use it a lot.

quote:

Originally posted by fireball168:
Malm,

How about a picture of the other side as well?

Thanks!

What other side did you want to see?