I have a US made Mk V in .340 wby, I am wondering how hard would it be, and what would be needed to make it a switch barrel set up? I would like to add a .257 wby mag barrel to the rifle.

Can anybody help me?

Switch barrel set ups seem like a good idea until you figure in the extra scope, seperate ammo,and a way to carry the whole package. Then different barrel contours seem to dictate dedicated fore ends...gets out of control pretty fast...

Long ago, I found that I did not have the "magic method" Maybe someone else does.

Better to make up a take down that can be easily carried in a compact case.

Thanks for the info Duane. I probably should have made it clear, I don't want the rifle to be a quick change thing when out hunting, I want just to have 1 action 1 scope and maybe 3-4 different barrels that I can fit myself at home whenever the fancy takes me. Sort of like get sick of the .340, change it for a .257 wby, then if I get a ton of cheap 30 cal bullets change it to .300 win mag.

I don't mind re-sighting in, and I would try to get the barrel contoured as close as possible to the original. I was thinking that I could do the switch barrel, and so shoot 3-4 different calibers from 1 action, without needing to buy new rifles and mess with all the permits and storage requirements over here in Oz.

Living in Australia certainly has a few down sides and gun restrictions are one of them. My idear of a switch barrel would be along the lines of leave the rifle as a .340 wby for the winter when shooting sambar deer, then in the warmer months switch to a .257 wby and use it for shooting goats and pigs way out.

Most people doing switch barrels want to be able to switch and then just wind a few clicks on their scope and have it sigted back in for a different caliber, or have the convinience of a take down rifle. I'm not in any of those camps. I'm just looking to own a few different calibers without the need to apply for a permit to buy the rifle,then needing a safe to house them all or the need for an alarm system if I have more than 15 guns.

To set the rifle up, I am thinking all that needs to happen is that my 'smith unscrews the factory barrel, torques it back up to say 30-40 ft/lbs, adds a witness mark to both the barrel and the action. He then takes a barrel blank contours it, threads it and headspaces it with the same 30-40ft/lbs of torque, adding a witness mark inline with the one on the action.

That would mean when I swap over barrels, I don't have to worry about torque wrenches aslong as the two marks line up, the headspace will be correct and the barrels will be on tight enough. Once again, I'll only be switching barrels at home, not in the field and even then probably only every few months or so.

Hope this makes sense

Steve

All makes perfect sense and will definitely work for you.

Shame you are not a Savage fan. The barrel nut and headspace gauges make it a five or six minute proposition.

Buy a 300WM and you can have every magnum barrel, except 375 H&H length. I bought a 14 Classic in 308. I now have barrels in 22-243, and 358 for it.

Rich

Thanks for the help, I am not agains Savage rifles, I just happen to have mainly Rem 700's and a weatherby, with the correct bolt face. I could not see why my idear would not work I just needed to hear it from sombody else with more expereience than me!

Thanks again

Steve

quote:

Originally posted by Aussie steve:
Living in Australia certainly has a few down sides and gun restrictions are one of them. My idear of a switch barrel would be along the lines of leave the rifle as a .340 wby for the winter when shooting sambar deer, then in the warmer months switch to a .257 wby and use it for shooting goats and pigs way out.

Most people doing switch barrels want to be able to switch and then just wind a few clicks on their scope and have it sigted back in for a different caliber, or have the convinience of a take down rifle. I'm not in any of those camps. I'm just looking to own a few different calibers without the need to apply for a permit to buy the rifle,then needing a safe to house them all or the need for an alarm system if I have more than 15 guns.

To set the rifle up, I am thinking all that needs to happen is that my 'smith unscrews the factory barrel, torques it back up to say 30-40 ft/lbs, adds a witness mark to both the barrel and the action. He then takes a barrel blank contours it, threads it and headspaces it with the same 30-40ft/lbs of torque, adding a witness mark inline with the one on the action.

That would mean when I swap over barrels, I don't have to worry about torque wrenches aslong as the two marks line up, the headspace will be correct and the barrels will be on tight enough. Once again, I'll only be switching barrels at home, not in the field and even then probably only every few months or so.

Hope this makes sense

Steve

All of that unscrewing and screwing of barrels is going to eventually cause wear on the threads and contact faces. It won't be long until things get loose. That's where the Savage system shines. The new contoured spanner style nuts eliminate to a large extent the "ugliness" of previous models. All you would need is one spanner wrench and go gauges for each barrel. Each barrel could have identical contours, so you keep the same stock for all.

Have someone make a barrel nut and set it up like a Savage.
Some guys are setting up Remingtons that way.
Doesn't the new Shilen action have a barrel nut?

Hal

Hi Aussie steve

Mate, I have a set up just like you are describing. It's based on a Mod 70 Win tho. I have 3 barrels for it - a .338 WM, a 7mm RM and a .257 Weath Mag. The barrels all have the same profile. The barrel changing gear (action wrench, vice and collets) were made for me by John Giles (PSECO) in Brisbane.

I tend to stick with one barrel for a year or 2 then change over. I only have the one scope which I just re zero every time I change barrels. The zero is usually pretty close, just requiring some minor adjustment.

The action and barrels have witness marks that I am supposed to line up, but all 3 bbls have foresites so I just make sure they are at TDC and that seems to work ok. Have never had any headspacing issues etc.

Theoretically you could do barrel swaps in the bush, with the vice set up on you bullbar or rear bar etc.

Give me a yell if you need more info.

Cheers.

GG

Thanks for the help mate, sounds like you have the same sort of set up that I want for my rifle. I'm glad to hear that it will work.

Any time Steve.

I was thinking - making up the action wrench might be an issue with the Weatherby action because of its locking lug system. An action with the normal opposed locking lugs and 90 degree bolt lift is easy but I'm not sure if there would be enough strength in the Weatherby receiver with its multitude of smaller lug srfaces and a cylindrical bolt. Someone here will have a better idea than me tho and will hopefully chime in.

GG

I have been wondering about the action wrench myself. I have heard about wrenches that go over the action or somthing like that, maybe thats what I'll need for this? There must be sombody out there who knows what wrench to use, I'll have to do some ringing around

Cheers

Steve

If you have it set up like a Savage you don't need an action wrench. I set one up for a gentleman in Namibia. Using a hammer or simular tool on the nut wrench, which is about 18" long, will loosen and tighten the nut enough. You can hold the action and strike the wrench. It works great and he loves it. You don't actually need a head space gage, use a new cartridge. I prefer the gage, but a new cartridge works fine.......Tom

quote:

Using a hammer or simular tool on the nut wrench,

That nut is almost as hard as glass. You can fracture or break the ring in half from the blow. I've seen it happen twice.

Brownells will sell you an action wrench.
If you stick to about 50 -60 foot/pounds of torque it will not take a huge effort.

Use Moly or copper based barrel assembly grease, and just keep an eye on the witness marks.

Look on one of the benchrest boards; those guys will have one action and ten different barrels that they are constantly switching out.

I had a Sako set up as a switch barrel with three different barrels. There was never a problem.

There are several quick detachable scope mounts that will get you within 2cm at 100 meters every time. That would make sense for your use, as you will be likely using a long range scope for the .257, and likely the same scope for the .340 and .300.

You can get the same barrel contour cut for all the tubes. That would make the .257 heavier. That is what you want in a long range "varmint" barrel. If the .300 feels a little nose heavy, you could just lop off a few cm of barrel length.

The fellow who has my old Sako switch barrel uses just one scope, but takes it off to make a barrel change easier. All three barrels are of good quality. They all zero within 6cm of adjustment at 100 meters - predictably. I think the "secret" is good quality cut-rifle barrels and very good machining.

You have some good gunsmiths in OZ. Also, with all the restrictions in place, I believe the switch barrel concept will get more and more popular as time goes by.

I will try and get you information on the correct stock wrench size.

Because the 300 and 340 are longer than the 257, you may need a magazine block and a different follower and spring; a quick call or E-mail to Weatherby will answer that question easily enough.

Good luck.