Somewhere someplace I remenber seeing a chemical that would remove excess solder by wiping the work with it while still hot. My local hardware store has never heard of such a thing. I am interested in a brand name so I can search by name.
I am interested in making cleanup easier, eliminating as much sanding as possible, especialy in "nooks and crannies".
------------------ Life is more exitin' when yer stickin' suppositories inta a wildcats behind!
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001
I think you are looking for Solder Wick. It is widely used in electronics. Basically, it is just copper braid saturated with flux. Heat the metal until the solder melts, and the Solder Wick will scarf up the solder like a sponge.
Posts: 2281 | Location: Layton, UT USA | Registered: 09 February 2001
A soap stick marker will work if you put it on before you start soldering, the solder will not stick to it or to the metal under it if you are a experienced solderer. clean up solder aroung the sights etc with a brass 1/4" bar it will not mar the metal and it cleans up fine.
I think Wildcat wants to remove the solder that once held the front and rear sights on his mil. Surplus barrel. If not, I would like to know the best way to remove this excess solder left on the barrel after sight removal...
Scout�.
Posts: 2 | Location: Florida | Registered: 08 March 2003
quote:Originally posted by scout: I think Wildcat wants to remove the solder that once held the front and rear sights on his mil. Surplus barrel. If not, I would like to know the best way to remove this excess solder left on the barrel after sight removal...
Scout�.
That is only one reason scout. There are many times when one wants to "clean up" all traces of solder so as not to spoil a blueing or browning job. If there are "nooks and crannies" this clean up can be time consuming. I now that this product exists. I ran across it while I had my mind on something else and thought I would remember it later. WRONG!
I am not sure whether it was used by plumbers. jewelers or hobbyists. It does exist. Basiicly one wipes the joint with a dry cotton cloth and follows with one saturated in this stuff while the work is still hot. (solder is molten) It is meant to remove thin films only. Removing solder from the exterior of a barrel is easy. Just like "shinin' shoes" It is when one gets into recessed areas that it becomes a pain.
------------------ Life is more exitin' when yer stickin' suppositories inta a wildcats behind!
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001
Try hydrogen peroxide. Use it when it part has cooled. It will dissolve lead basesd alloys. It will also cause steel to rust, so be carful. If the solder is molten you can also use a wirebrush on a rotery tool to remove bulk of it. Ray
They make a spring loaded device called a solder sucker. When excess solder is heated you meerly suck it into this pen-shaped tool which spits it out solid into a recepticle. Electronic supply houses carry.
Posts: 896 | Location: Austin,TX USA | Registered: 23 January 2001
A "solder sucker" or a "solder wick" can be used to remove molten solder. Both of these are used to remove small drops (or excessive solder) from circuit boards.
Posts: 2448 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 May 2002
Polish the area as normal for the reblue. Be sure by testing with cold blue. I do not believe there is anything that will remove solder without messing up the blue.
Solder braid and suckers only remove the blobs of solder. They leave a tinned surface. You can make the home version of the braid with steel wool and flux. It will work great, remove your blue too.
So, you get back to the mechanical polishing way.
Or.... I do recall a product marketed for gun cleaning. It was called "Whipe Away". It was a treated cloth designed for removing lead from bullets. I sold the stuff in the 80's. I have no idea if it is still available. For your purposes I think sandpaper is best. For the "nooks and crannies" try bead blasting.
[This message has been edited by scot (edited 02-08-2002).]
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000
Wildcat Junkie is correct. To remove a lot of solder left from military sights etc, heat with a torch and wipe with a cotton cloth. You can work small areas at a time, heat and wipe, heat and wipe.
Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001
quote:Originally posted by Craftsman: Wildcat Junkie is correct. To remove a lot of solder left from military sights etc, heat with a torch and wipe with a cotton cloth. You can work small areas at a time, heat and wipe, heat and wipe.
Yes that is the process, with a "finishing" wipe with the solder removing compound. I wish I had bought some when I came across it! It is meant to remove the thin "tinning" layer only. I am begining to think I ran across it in a "hobby" situation.
------------------ Life is more exitin' when yer stickin' suppositories inta a wildcats behind!
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001
