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Anyone Know How to Ream Ruger 38 Cylinder to 357?
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I have a Ruger speed six in 38 and was considering drilling out the holes to accept 357 mag ammo as I'm not comfortable hotloading 38 cases. Am told to use a 357 finishing reamer and just turn it by hand - is this correct? Would like to hear tricks and tips as to how to do this. Thanx...Gary D.
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Western Washington, USA | Registered: 25 August 2003Reply With Quote
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That may well work if you are very careful, though a jig to hold the cylinder, and a floating reamer holder in a milling machine would be much better.

I have to question the wisdom of this though, for safeties sake. You would be altering a factory product designed for .38's, which may or may not withstand repeated use of the heavier pressure .357 loads. Knowing Ruger's, it's probably fine if the cylinder is long enough, but there is no way of knowing for sure. It would be cheaper/safer(?) just to buy a .357, I'd say. Good luck! Joe
 
Posts: 58 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 23 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanx Joe for the info, still not sure if I'll do this was just thinking bout it. A retired Seattle Cop friend of mine still has his Smith that the department had bored out to 357 way back when stainless 357's were in short supply - their supplier told them no problem cause metal and cylinders were the same. I've compared this cylinder with a 357 and they are identical except for caliber. Local gunsmith says no problem with the Rugers due to strength and his price was $10 per hole. His procedure was exactly like you described...thanx again...Gary D.
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Western Washington, USA | Registered: 25 August 2003Reply With Quote
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