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|  That may well work if you are very careful, though a jig to hold the cylinder, and a floating reamer holder in a milling machine would be much better. I have to question the wisdom of this though, for safeties sake. You would be altering a factory product designed for .38's, which may or may not withstand repeated use of the heavier pressure .357 loads. Knowing Ruger's, it's probably fine if the cylinder is long enough, but there is no way of knowing for sure. It would be cheaper/safer(?) just to buy a .357, I'd say. Good luck! Joe |
| Posts: 58 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 23 November 2003 | 
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| Thanx Joe for the info, still not sure if I'll do this was just thinking bout it. A retired Seattle Cop friend of mine still has his Smith that the department had bored out to 357 way back when stainless 357's were in short supply - their supplier told them no problem cause metal and cylinders were the same. I've compared this cylinder with a 357 and they are identical except for caliber. Local gunsmith says no problem with the Rugers due to strength and his price was $10 per hole. His procedure was exactly like you described...thanx again...Gary D. |
| Posts: 56 | Location: Western Washington, USA | Registered: 25 August 2003 | 
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