Ok, I am a novice working with the 1909 Argies!
That said, what is the best way to add a "button" to the release inside the trigger bow? There is a slot cut in the release, but it does not look like a button was there. My inclination is to have a weld build up and file the shape I want. Your help is appreciated

I've hack sawed them out of surface ground stock that fits the slot in the bow. First drill the hole and put a pin through original part and the new stock and trace the shape with a scribe in dykem. Then spend the time filing out the right shape.

Now I just run the program I've got of the custom part on my mill and spend very little time fitting the last few thousandths. Then checker the button. I've got a few to cut in the next few weeks and if you want one that's almost done, it would run $20 + shipping. The FN manufactured ones are a little different than the German ones.

If you're looking to learn some filing skills then by all means start with a flat chunk and the hole. I wouldn't recommend welding and then filing the shape. Not that it won't work, it's just a crap shoot with hard spots and pits if you are having a buddy weld it. You're time messing with it has to be worth something.

James, I don't fully understand your process. Are you making a button to attach to the release lever or are you making a new lever with a release button?

My latest method is to take a piece of round stock, figure out the radius I need to mate to the mil release bow, offset the round stock in a four jaw chuck, then start turning it until it looks right. Then I tig it in place, mill the weld and cut grooves in it with a checkering file. That all takes a while to do, time better spent doing something else. Like fishing, maybe.

You can weld up a button, but if I go through the trouble of cleaning up a guard I like to thighten it up also, so it is easier to make a new latch from stratch. But you can also buy new already shaped latches, depends where you get them but they are usually thicker so you can stone the sides until you get a really nice tight fit.
-Don

Thanks for the replies! I was thinking of making a button on the existing lever. If I could purchase a lever with the button that would certainly be preferred. I really don't want to spend an inordinate amount of time with a file, although I have done it before!

Mr. Anderson, is your offer for a shaped lever with button? This is a German version.

Thanks again,

quote:

Originally posted by M Pursell:That all takes a while to do, time better spent doing something else. Like fishing, maybe.

I'd have to agree here.
We just got dumped on with a foot+ of snow. They closed the interstate from Wall, SD to Sheridan, WY. All the highways were closed as well. I think it must be one of those natural cooling cycles that naturally follows all the man made warming cycles that I personally caused with my great big diesel pickup. Cold front kind of shut off the walleyes for a few days.

As for the button, I make them one piece as part of the lever. The part is a little proud of an original DWM 09 bow I plucked numbers from with an edge finder. I checker the button as well.

I drill the hole #31 and ream it to .126". I set up my guard and ream them .125". I do this as well on the floorplates. Easier finding 1/8" pins. I can leave the holes smaller for those that wish to use the metric pin.

I have taken the latch out of the bow and traced it on paper and then draw out what shape i want and trace this to a peice of metal. Have the right thickness to start with helps, just file it out and solder to orignal latch and checker. When shaped to fit closely to the latch, there is no solder showing after blueing!

Mr. Anderson,

I would like to call you and discuss this and some other work I have in mind. Could you provide a phone number and bet time to call? You may email me at jjwag69@hotmail.com if you prefer.

Thank you,

James, I'd like to get one of the levers, too. I can be reached at: MKane160@yahoo.com.

Thanks!

MKane160

I can't even spell CNC so I make the buttons on my lathe. I turn a piece to the right diameter then knurl it. I then grind it off to fit the original release. Once it fits pretty good I silver-solder it together then cut off the excess. The silver-solder joint usually can't be seen as it's below the line of the slot in the triggerguad.

I remember the discussion I had with Tom Burgess on this subject when I visited with him at his shop. He used to make his own replacement "buttons" too, meaning the whole release. And he told me that if he was remdeling one of my 09 Argentine bottom metals I wouldn't want to see it while he was working on it because although he made them fit real close he also "hammered" the sides in after he fit them so that they fit perfectly. Then of course he remodeled them by tapering the whole guard back, and then polished them up so they looked like they were brand new.

Here is a photo of one done by our very own Gunmaker, who does them virtually the same way.
Immaculate work.

How many blank bow levers do you want.

I broke down about 2 months ago and CAD'ed the part out and put it on the CNC mill.

Machined from 1018, with the raduis for the finger tab, slightly thick for fitting and no hole.

Part number 1909BL, retail $ 7.50 each, plus shipping and handling

James Wisner
Custom Metalsmith
Wisner's Inc.

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

I'd have to agree here.
We just got dumped on with a foot+ of snow. They closed the interstate from Wall, SD to Sheridan, WY. All the highways were closed as well. I think it must be one of those natural cooling cycles that naturally follows all the man made warming cycles that I personally caused with my great big diesel pickup. Cold front kind of shut off the walleyes for a few days.

As for the button, I make them one piece as part of the lever. The part is a little proud of an original DWM 09 bow I plucked numbers from with an edge finder. I checker the button as well.

I drill the hole #31 and ream it to .126". I set up my guard and ream them .125". I do this as well on the floorplates. Easier finding 1/8" pins. I can leave the holes smaller for those that wish to use the metric pin.

For those who would consider fitting the levers themselves this is the way to go. No hole to drill, the finger pad is already checkered, and the fit is real tight in the slot. Dollar for Dollar a real value.