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First Do-It Yourself Glass Bedding Project ?
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I have done a little wood and finishing work on rifle stocks, but I have no experience at all in do-it-yourself glass bedding projects. I could take my rifle to the local gun store and pay for a glass bedding job, which might turn out OK, or might not; or I could buy Acra-glas gel and try it myself. I have read a bit about glass bedding, and it looks as if its fairly easy to end up gluing the metal into the stock by accident. In general, is this a worthwhile project for someone with no experience to attempt? Or is the risk of making a mess of things too high?
 
Posts: 189 | Location: San Jose, CA | Registered: 02 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Worthwhile project or risk of making a big mess? Both. There are some books and websites that walk you through all the nitty-gritty, so I won't bore you with it here. If you are reasonably attentive to details, can follow directions, you shouldn't have any problem.

The places where folks mess up is getting epoxy on the outside of the stock or metal, or getting the barreled action glued in permantly. Mask the outside of the stock, use plenty of release agent on the metal and make sure you don't create a mechanical lock for the glass and you'll be fine.

I suggest doing it in the morning. That way you can break the screws loose, if not the whole action, before you go to bed. I have a tendency to start the job in the late afternoon. That leaves me to lie in bed wondering if it'll come out. They always have, but I still fret over it.
 
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003Reply With Quote
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I tried it for my first time last month. I did fine, and thought after the fact it was much easier than I expected. Attention to detail is important in this, as well as anything else, but that it half the fun of doing it yourself, IMHO.

I did use the cheap factory synthetic stock, though, so if I ruined it it would be no great loss. Now I have the confidence to tackle a decent stock in the future.....
 
Posts: 1780 | Location: South Texas, U. S. A. | Registered: 22 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Hey BB, history has to start somewhere. The only thing I will point out is you don't have to do it all at once. You can do part and let that set and so forth. If you come up without contact at some point you can always add another coat. Use Johnson's paste wax as a release agent. It works great.
Finally, if you're still unsure, go to your gunsmith and pay him to do the job but have him let you watch him or have him oversee you while you do it.
 
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001Reply With Quote
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How many gunsmiths would let a customer stand over them and watch while he is trying to work?

That's an old joke.

$25.00 for the job.
$500.00 if you watch.
$1000.00 if you speak.
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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It's easy to do and easy to mess up. But it's easy to avoid the pitfalls, too.

I suggest doing it yourself. Starting with a stock that is easily replaced is a good suggestion.

Do a lot of dry runs first, mentally going through the possible disasters and their remedies at each stage.

Use clay to fill all voids that would cause a mechanical lock. Use Johnson's paste wax as a release agent and heavily wax the entire outer surface of the stock with it as well, then mask off the stock. Use a heating pad (like for bad knees) to accelerate the cure. Keep the excess bedding compound under the pad also. Test frequently and pop the action loose at the "stiff clay" stage, then tighten it back up and trim the extruded compound off with a sharpened popsicle stick. (Grape is best!)

Look up detailed directions on the web, and ask questions!
 
Posts: 1645 | Location: Elizabeth, Colorado | Registered: 13 February 2004Reply With Quote
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