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Bedded my first rifle... and now it shoots worse!
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<C-Hawk>
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I just finished my first range trip with my recently bedded 700VS. Before, the rifle would shoot fairly well, but inconsistent. I thought it was a bedding problem, so I ordered up some steel bed. I can't see where anything is wrong with the results of the bedding job, and in fact, I'm quite pleased considering it was my first attempt.

Maybe I just need to change my load? Do bedded rifles like different loads then before they were bedded? If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
C-Hawk

 
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Originally posted by C-Hawk:
I just finished my first range trip with my recently bedded 700VS. Before, the rifle would shoot fairly well, but inconsistent. I thought it was a bedding problem, so I ordered up some steel bed. I can't see where anything is wrong with the results of the bedding job, and in fact, I'm quite pleased considering it was my first attempt.

Maybe I just need to change my load? Do bedded rifles like different loads then before they were bedded? If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
C-Hawk


Have you tried free floating the bbl?

 
Posts: 2351 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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C-Hawk

When you steel bedded your rifle and was installing the action screws, did you tighten the action screws? If so you problably steel bedded any of your bedding problems in. The screws should be turned in just enough to feel them bottom then loosen a 1/4 turn so as not to stress the action.

You also need a little support under the first 2 inches of barrel. Did you steel bed that part too? The rest of the barrel can free float.

Did you apply electrical tape for clearance on the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug?

If properly bedded you should be able to set a dial indicator up and see less than .003 inch movement of the barrel when you loosen and tighten the action screws one at a time. If you get zero movement then something is in a bind and stuck.

 
Posts: 1531 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
<C-Hawk>
posted
tsturm, the barrel is free floated. In fact, after bedding it, I ended up with more clearance in the barrel channel than I would have liked.

Craftsman, I did use the action screws to hold things in place while the bedding set. I don't belive i tightened them to much, but i'm not positive. I just tightened until the action looked like it was siting in the stock right(not too high). I never tightened them all the way down, but came darn close. I did bed the first two inches of the barrel, with the rest free floating. Also, I put two layers of electrical tape on the sides, bottom, front of the recoil lug.

It came apart with very little effort when it was done. The bedding under the action is very thin, where it originally rested on the aluminum bedding block. In front of the recoil lug, it is thicker.

Any more ideas? How do I know if I "bedded in" my problems?

The rifle used to fluctuate, with most groups falling between .4 - .9. That's with the best load I have found to date. (35.0gr IMR4064, 52gr Sierra, Fed210M) Since bedding, I haven't shot it much, but it looks to be shooting fairly consistent in the .6 to .7 range.

I really appreciate the help so far.
C-Hawk

 
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C-Hawk,
I have never heard of anyone glass bedding a stock in an aluminum bedding block. And if you were getting .4 to .9" groups, I wonder why you even tried. Most people would give their eye teeth for that. Is there a possiblity that the inconsistency is your shooting technique, which still seems very good to only get that spread.

Don't worry about it and just smile.

Chic Worthing

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
<Don G>
posted
C-Hawk,

I have successfully bedded two Rem PSS w/aluminum bedding blocks and in both cases improved the consistency and average group sizes. One was 1.25 MOA to start, the other was .75. Both are now averaging in the .4s.

Try Craftsman's tests to see if the action is "rocking" on a high spot in the middle of the aluminum block.

The way I did the PSSs was to wrap a "barrel locater" ring of tape near the forearm tip to set the barrel height above the channel, and the side to side placement. I made sure that I had a good coat of steel bed on the top and recoil face of the bedding block then then I tightened only the front screw until it just hit the block. The weight of the barrel should make the tape hit at the front. I then back off the front screw 1/16 turn. The rear screw is just in place with no strain at all.

Examine your present job for "sugaring" or crumbling at sharp edges. This stuff gets in all the faces and can cause the bad groups you see.

Good luck and keep trying.

Don

 
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Originally posted by C-Hawk:

It came apart with very little effort when it was done.

Doesn't sound right to me. I've only done two rifles but both of them were hard enough to take apart 10 hours later that they had me worried. I only use a single layer of electrical tape on the front, bottom and sides of the lug, though.

 
Posts: 1246 | Location: Northern Virginia, USA | Registered: 02 June 2001Reply With Quote
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C-Hawk,
I don't see a problem. If you average your .4"-.9", you come to .6"-.7".

Bedding a rifle doesn't necessarily make it more accurate; it's supposed to make it more consistent. It sounds like you did a great job.

George

------------------
Shoot straight, shoot often, but by all means, use enough gun!

 
Posts: 14623 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 22 May 2001Reply With Quote
<Slamfire>
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Some Remington barrels insist on a little pressure at the fore end.
 
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GeorgeS is right on track. Now that the gun is shooting consistant groups, go back and do a little load development.

The variation in group size you are describing could be from range conditions alone. When you are approaching sub half minute accuracy, a lot of factors come in to play, range conditions, loads, shooting technique, etc.

If you're still not confident of your bedding job get someone to help you set up a dial indicator like I described, it doesn't lie.

You haven't mentioned cleaning the barrel, thats another varible to eliminate.

Good Luck

 
Posts: 1531 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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C-Hawk,
If your bedding changed the way barrel vibrates and it no longer like old loads, you probly need a new load.

Like the saying :"changes one thing, changes everything".

 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
<C-Hawk>
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Many thanks to everyone. I appreciate all the replies.

I think I'll start by working on my loads and see if that helps things or not. I checked all the other things that were mentioned as best as I could, and did not see any problems. I'll let you all know how it works out.

Thanks again,
C-Hawk

 
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You are getting more consistant groups with the same average so you have made an improvement.I have heard of several gunsmiths bedding the aluminum vee block type stocks.They claim better consistancy especially in varying temperatures.
 
Posts: 3104 | Location: alberta,canada | Registered: 28 January 2002Reply With Quote
<pshooter>
posted
c-hawk, I think pyrotec could be right on. Bbl. harmonics are one of the big reasons why one load works, and one doesn't. If your bedding looks and feels right, don't look for ghosts. Any contact change (forend pressure...etc) will affect the vibration(harmonics) during the shot and thus affect the bullet. I learned this on a t/c 14"bull bbl. 7x30. Installed a clamp style bbl. sling swivel ONLY and it changed the 100yd POI 16"! Sounds like you are on the right track.
 
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Generally speaking I would not bed any of the barrel on a Rem 700. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3525 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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