I picked up a DWM 09 Argy action for something to do in my spare time. I have worked the action and bottom metal down to 400 grit. The bolt I have is very rough, not matching, and eroded on the face. Is there a source for a decent bolt that doesn't need drastic polishing? Same on the bolt stop, where do I get a nice one? The one I have looks like a shop project gone bad. The ejector doesn't kick out; the pivot hole is worn oval shaped, I assume this is the reason its not working? I would like to weld up the bridges and mill for Talley rings, good idea or ruined action? If do-able, what steel for the bridges, and what rod for the TIG? Same question on the bottom metal, I really like the long tang off the trigger guard down to the grip cap, but need to weld it on. I am also considering a color case finish on the action, bottom metal, bolt, bolt shroud (thinking PMI 3-pos). How far do I need to take the polishing for this kind of finnish? Also, the bottom metal is very soft, and even if I go with a rust blue it will need to be hardened at least on the trigger guard bow. I taper my trigger guards down at the back then quickly flare back out to the stock line, should I wait on this until after it has been hardened to reduce warping or should I not worry about it? I like the Talley bolt handle in Brownells, but it is at all possible to have the look of an origional MW sporter bolt handle with a moderately low mounted scope? Then caliber... I am drawn in two directions, practicle, effective, and always available with 30-06, or classic appeal of .318 WR. I view both cartridges as equals in effectiveness with the nod going to 30-06 in versatility due to the selection of components. On the other hand, it is a hunting rifle and I generally pick a heavy bullet for caliber and stick with it which suits the .318 with Woodleighs just fine. The stock will be of the style used by Rigby on their light stalking rifles. Barrel will be Kreiger (a highpower habit) with a barrel band front ramp and one standing two folding on a rib in back (nostalgia). Scope will be a fixed 4x S&B for simplicity and smooth lines. comments welcome (short of dump it and buy an X-mart ADL)
thanks
Rich

Rich, for ideas, hop over to the Big Bore room and look at two different topics: "Cut Rifle Express Project" and "Project Photos: 458 Lott, M70 action, NECG sights". Both topics have photos showing two types of sights: NECG folding leaf rear on the 416 M70 and a NECG rear receiver bridge peep sight on the M70 458 Lott. Unless you are doing the 1909 project as a Nostalgic "Labor of Love" you will be much better off financially to start with something like a M70 action. I have converted many Military Mausers, a lot of work and expense involved to make them nice.

A side note to some of your questions, the 3-1/2 per cent Nickel Steel rod sold by Brownells works nicely for TIG welding on the Mausers. Also, you can machine the clip charger slot out of the rear bridge and install a rear base of the proper length. This gets you away from welding on the rear bridge and warpage. Makes loading the magazine easier also. And that ejector came with a oval hole. If it does not work properly, might be a weak or broken spring or rough surfaces on the ejector in the vicinity of the oval hole. The outside of the ejector "rubs" on the ejector box spring and a bit of excessive friction here prevents if from swinging out. Study the operation of the ejector carefully, polish the rubbing surfaces, and give it shot of good lube. Also note the tapered front edge that allows it to slip easily into the slot in the left bolt lug. This edge should be smooth, tapered or beveled, and free of burrs.

[This message has been edited by John Ricks (edited 12-07-2001).]

Rich-

You're embarking on quite a project. I wish I had the talents to do something like that.

Here's my $.02: The cost of the action will be almost immaterial relative to the time and money you are talking about investing. Start with a good, clean '09. There are plenty around. I just paid $150 for one (action only) in excellent condition with matching numbers. There's just no point to starting with a junker.

As to adding square bridges - lots of effort. Some gunsmiths say don't weld on the front ring. If you do, you'll certainly be looking at a re-heat treat job. Another route (also lots of effort) is adding sculpted scope bases. Here's a photo (I hope) of an action that is currently a work in progress. The bases are screw-on and dovetailed for Talley rings. Once these are polished and blued, it will be difficult to see that they are not integral to the action.

My feeling on caliber is this: if your idea is to build something you will personally hunt with for a long time, then build whatever tickles your fancy. If you are considering selling the rifle after a year or two, then go with a 30-06 unless you think you'll end up building a best quality gun. The demand for a home-hobby custom job in 318WR is going to be rather limited.

Your description is everything I like in a custom rifle. Again, I wish I had the talent to build my own.

Forrest

[This message has been edited by ForrestB (edited 12-07-2001).]

[This message has been edited by ForrestB (edited 12-07-2001).]

I just posted my first picture. I'm so proud I could cry. It only took three tries. Now you can imagine why no one would let me near a TIG welder.

I guess this project is a labor of love, I have always wanted a Brit style 98 but prefer things my way too much to buy a rifle off the rack. As far as using a model 70 instead, I've done several and spent almost as much time getting them smooth and straight as I have on the 09. In conrast, the 09 actually has better internal surface finish than my model 70s started with. Anyhow, I'm a machinist transplanted into law school, bored to death, and my time is free and available, if I don't have a project I get into trouble.

There were also some good pictures of a sculptured square bridge "caps" on a .404 in a recent issue of Rifle...

You are really going for it all. Forrest B is correct in stating you should use the best 1909 Argy action you can find for such an ambitious project...

I like the Rigby stalking rifle design... I like the idea of the trigger guard extending to the grip cap, but the inletting is tough (for me)- I'm lucky if I can get the grip cap looking good... Premium components are good.

I'm also in the "stick with the .30-06 camp"... When I build a rifle, I plan on it outlasting me and I feel I have a duty to the next owner whomever he may be to craft a practical firearm that demonstrates my skills and design knowledge.

Replace that bolt. Sometimes Ebay has Mauser bolts. Or try back where you bought the action.

Don't harden the bottom metal, I think it is unnecessary. I polish to 400 and wire wheel bright then rust blue- it gets nice and dark in about 3-4 passes because it is soft... Keep a careful eye on it so it doesn't pit-

Post pics let us know you progress...

Rich,
There is honor in doing your own work! I was a wood worker while putting myself through school. Since I Fly a desk now and can't spend all of my free time lifting weights I am learning myself the art of stockmaking. My goals are high.
Anyway, for spare Mauser parts check this link out:

http://www.jldenter.com/JLD%20Accessories%20page.htm

They may have parts of use to you, especially concerning that bolt. Good luck

Perseverance & Prosperity

The hole in the ejector is supposed to be oval. Mauser designed it that way to soften the blow to the ejector & lessen the chance of breaking. If you run into one that isn't then it's a late war ejector from a K98K. Trash the bolt body or use it to practice welding on bolt handles. A 338/06 might be worth considering as an alternative to that 318 WR.

------------------
NRA Life member

[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-07-2001).]

If the action, and bolt aren't in good shape, you can use them to practice on. Replacement bolts are cheap, if you are going to spend alot of money, start with a high quality action.