Hi guys ,
I just picked up a very nice old Neumann 10ga.
db sxs shotgun . I would like to install sling swivel studs , front and rear . Would the front stud , be one of the 2 screw type , and tap into or thru the bottom rib ?
Might it be soldered in place , as an alternative to drilling / taping ?

Thanks for your help
Bob

Be careful that if you do try to solder on a sling swivel you don't unsolder the bottom rib! Most sxs shot guns I have seen with an underbarrel sling swivel have it screwed in place.

Yeah , unsoldering the bottom rib would not be good !! Drilling and taping is probably the only way to do this properly .

I have never seen a split type swivel clamp made for a double barrel . I have used these type split clamps on single barrel shot guns , and like them .

Thanks , Bob

On shotguns I don't want to modify, like old doubles, I carry then out in the case. Most moden cases have a shoulder strap. On that I don't care about modifying, ie 870s and such I have instaled QD swivel studs. I find that trying to shoot them with the sling on is distracting. So, I take the sling off for shooting. That gets back no advantage over a modern case.

The front swivel base solders on easily. Not the big disaster it's made out to be if you just clamp the top and bottom ribs and then the bbls crosswise as a precaution.

The heat from soft soldering in that small area will melt the bottom rib solder right there where you are attaching the base but nothing will happen to the rib or bbls if you just take a moment to secure everything.

You can soft solder the swivel base to the bottom rib w/o clamping or wiring anything if you are quick about it and have confidence to do it that way.

Barrel sets don't fall to pieces at the first sight of a flame.
The top rib shouldn't be in any threat of loosening fom such a small soldering job on the bottom rib. If it does, you're using way too much heat.

Full contact of the base to the rib is necessary for a good sweat solder job to hold. Soft solder is not a gap filler, it has no strength in that use.

Clean and tin the base well,,outline and clean of the rib of bluing and then flux it.
Clamp it into position and easy on the flame to just make the solder flow. Give it a bit of extra pressure downward against the rib at that moment and hold till the solder solidifys.
Let everything cool by itself. If you did it right there should be no damage to the blue,,no scratches to the blue.

Or you can D&T for 2 mounting screws if you have that type of base. The rib is thin and there isn't much thread depth to them, so strength of one system over the other is a wash generally.

You can sweat solder the screw on type base if you want to take advantage of everything.

If the rib is poorly soldered to the bbls to begin with, neither will hold up.