I was listening, I didn't call you Mr. Worthing this time!

Anyway, from much of the reading I have done about stockmaking, start to finish, my impression has been that the "normal" (oversimplified) progression is: shape it, then sand it, then apply the finish, then checker it, take it hunting. However, when you posted the pictures of the OEJ I believe that you stated that there was some glossiness in the checkering that was do to wet finish. If I interpreted this correctly then the progression that I listed above would be different than yours. What is the process that you use? And if you do apply finish after the checkering has been done, how do you keep it from clogging/filling the checkering?

Thanks,
Bob

Bob, the glossiness was due to the fact that the finish had just been put in and the sheen was from that. When I put in finish I rub it in with an old tooth brush (my dentist keeps me in good supply) and then I wipe it with a lint free cloth. I give the checkering several coats over a 30 minute period so it soaks in wll. You just saw it in the middle of that process.

bobvthunter - Your progression is correct. When you cut the checkering, however, you also cut away the "finish" in that area, exposing raw wood. After the checkering is complete, finish is applied to the checkering to seal it and to more closely match the color of the uncheckered wood. Chic had just completed applying a coat of finish to the checkering in that picture.

Most of the books tell you that progression. I used to do that way myself, but every once in a while I would screw up the finish of my stock during the layout phase. Here's a tip for you though. After the sanding is complete and just prior to finishing do your layout work with a soft pencil. You can do it until you get it just right, 'cause if you mess up or don't like it you erase it with sand paper. Once everything is the way you like it cut in all of the borders possible and your masterlines to half depth. Now do your finish work. Your border and master lines will fill with finish, but your checkering cutters will easily remove it. Give it a try.

Bill McGuire used to do that. He would even cut the checkeing part way and the clean it out after the was done finishing.

When I'm done checkering, I use the same finish I used on the stock and dilute it about 5 to 1 with whatever it's thinning agent is. To this I add a stain (obviously it must be compatible chemically) to my mixture. This takes some trial and error....because I want the checkering to stand out a little.....not too much. On light colored woods it sure don't take much stain!!! I use black and brown and red stains...never a white one.

I mix about 25cc of this stuff and use a fine brush to apply to the checkering. Because of the thinner, it dries quickly and soaks into the wood quickly.

Use your own judgement as to whether you wish to give it more coats. I usually don't because it gets brushed in quite densely the first time.

The wood is sealed and it's difficult to see finish in the checkering.