dj, they are relatively easy to do. I use the small cutter from Brownells (San Diego). I cut two lines at 24 lpi, where I want the border. Don't make the mistake and let the outer one cross at the point. You will have to entend them by hand to make good connections. Don't make the center one too deep or it will difficult to get rid of the line that is formed from the cutter. Use even pressure on the mullered border and go real easy where they join. The best way to make the joint is to take two of them and grind the side for the angle they make at the end of the diamond. That will ensure that you do not overcut on the opposite side at the end. Are you confuses yet?

I'm getting ready to checker my next stock and would like to try a Mullered border. Are there any pitfalls, problems or things that I need to watch for and/or any other helpful suggestions some of the more experienced guys might offer?...........DJ

To add to what Chic said, I also use a Doiron radius cutter for my electric checkering tool. Then finish with the hand cutter. I like using the electric tool because it has an a spacer guide.

With all of that said, I should get Chic to show me how it's done. Because, my checkering, in no way compares to Chic's.

Can anyone explain or post a pic of what exactly a mullered border is?

Todd

Todd:

The mullered border is a cove, or concave shaped border.

Take a look at these photos of the Goudy rifle. Especially, the close-up of the forend tip.

Mullered border photos

Wow! Gaudy is awesome.

Thanks for the help guys..........DJ

Chic and Rodger, thanks so much for the pointers and tutoring, you guys are great.


DJ,

That is a fine piece of work isnt it, but just thinking of 250 grain bullets and looking at that buttplate hurts.

Chic and Roger give you good advice, and you can also point the muller using a 2mm gouge with little trouble.

Best to you.