I was wondering how much material can you remove on a commercial Mauser front bridge, before it becomes a problem?

I have a Husqvarna 640, with Logo and "Sweeden" stamped underneath.

Its not drilled, so I was hoping to grind that off. To have a cleaner surface..



Is it possible? And would one need to reheat afterwards??

Better way is fill the text with micro-welding and then stiple the rings upper side, same way as seen old pre-WWII british Mausers.

Like in this foto:

That should be done by a engraver?

Looks alot more expensive then grinding??

Well, I suppose if you put the problem into the mind of an engineer, (of which I am not) they would say that the structural strength of that area has already been compromised to the depth of the engraving. (which I have been told, by an engineer) So grinding it to the depth of the engraving should not compromise it. (MUCH) I added the much myself because I don't put much faith in most engineers. But it does make sense.

Many of the older Mausers were case hardened IIRC. Is there a problem with grinding away some of this hardened shell?

The case is only a few thousandths of an inch deep. It's primary purpose is to prevent wear and galling from metal on metal parts movement. While it probably provides a small amount of structural integrity on parts that thick and heavy, I don't know that its actually a measurable amount.

quote:

Originally posted by igorrock:
Better way is fill the text with micro-welding and then stiple the rings upper side, same way as seen old pre-WWII british Mausers.

Like in this foto:

That looks like an EDM finish to me

What have you got against 'Sweeden'? I find the crests on military actions part of the charm. Leaving it might save some future owner tearing his hair out because part of the provenance is gone.

I remember seeing a Dressl "Octagon" receiver mauser years ago. probably re-hardened

quote:

That looks like an EDM finish to me

Could be but you could do same with special punch and hammer if you are skilled enough.

EDMing has come a long way. It looks just like the other several hundred that I have seen manually stippled. I knew someone would come up with a cheaper and easier way than wasting 1/2 hour with a hammer and punch.

if you want to see stippling?

http://www.bladeforums.com/for...60-Great-helm-dagger

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
EDMing has come a long way. It looks just like the other several hundred that I have seen manually stippled. I knew someone would come up with a cheaper and easier way than wasting 1/2 hour with a hammer and punch.

EDM cheaper.......that's beyond funny

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
EDMing has come a long way. It looks just like the other several hundred that I have seen manually stippled. I knew someone would come up with a cheaper and easier way than wasting 1/2 hour with a hammer and punch.

EDM cheaper.......that's beyond funny

Shush now ! Don't ruin the moment. he he he

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):

Personally, I do everything I can to leave the crest intact as historic proof of origin.

And it would almost be sacrilege to remove some of the crests, like the 1909 Peruvian "Original Mauser" crest or the Persian Mauser lion crest. Crests like those are part of what makes the action special.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Those electric "engraving" pens can do a good job. the impact is adjustable and consistent

I actually have one of those Foredom power chisels that I use Duane. This is just an example of how fast they work but when I use it for real I clamp a piece of steel down as a border and the edges of my stippling come out razor sharp. You have to take the headpiece apart and reverse the spring in it to put it into jackhammer mode. The stroke speed can be adjusted with the rheostat and it's got power to burn. I use drill rod blanks for chisels. It takes about 20 minutes to set up and do a receiver ring. You can also stipple an entire gunstock before your customer can say: "What the fawk happened here?"

Most of my customers are like sambarman338 and want to keep the original embossing which is just fine by me. I have always viewed stippling as one of those European patch up jobs that I don't care for. I do it, but I'm a whore and I'll do anything for money as long as it's legal. I gots bills to pay, dontchaknows!

Stippling with a Foredom power chisel by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr


VIDEO of stippling with Foredom power chisel:
https://youtu.be/S-nzkM6GIDA

quote:

And it would almost be sacrilege to remove some of the crests, like the 1909 Peruvian "Original Mauser" crest

Agreed, Mike
Which is why mine has open sights! And still has that big charger hump.

I must be missing something. If you grind the ring the scope base will not fit right, it will also want to shoot high too. Hopefully the scope will have enough adjustment. if not, you will probably have to modify the bases. Second, the scope base would cover up the ring anyway. This seems pointless.

To each his own, it's your gun do as you wish but personally I would attempt to save the crest intact. I would suggest a side mount / get another rifle already altered - lots of them out there. JMHO - FWIW --- John

Normally, when the action is set up in the dividing head or spacer, the front ring and the rear are cut together. Most of the time they are more accurate after they are done than they were before. Providing the barrel and receiver are actually pointing the same direction.

Grinding a crest is like burning your birth certificate IMO...A custom Mauser should maintain the crest and the side engravings on the outside of left rail..otherwise it can and has devalued some nice guns..I won't buy a Mauser that I cannot determine its origin.....

I can tell the origin of most Mausers without a crest. Anyway, leave them on, unless you want it ground off, in which case, grind it off. The scope mounts usually still fit; there is enough tolerance in them that a few thousandths off the ring won't matter. Easy to grind through case hardening, which varies from dead soft to file hard on Mausers.

Yes, I can to, and I do have some action surface ground as they really look nice when do right...but one should leave either the side lettering or front ring crest in tact IMO..It helps when you go to sell it for sure! I have had many guys try to get a better price because they told me they were not guarentee which Mauser it was, which I dismiss as a rule, but it happens..