I have a Mod 70 chambered in 243 with an Adams and Bennett barrel mounted in a Bell & Carlson Medalist stock. The gunsmith "floated" the barrel when he mounted the barrel. I was getting terrible accuracy and tore the gun down to check all components for tightness. The action screws were very loose, except the middle screw. So I thought the action was being torqued and causing the problem. When I tighten the action screws (front and rear to 65 in-lb, center is very light), the chamber area of the barrel became very tight into the stock. The gun is still not accurate and I'm wondering if this may be the problem.

What is the proper floating zone? Should it free float all the way to the recoil lug? Should the chamber area be supported as it is? Should there be some fore end pressure on the barrel?

Any advice would be appreciated.

can't tell you what is right....just what I do!

Tighten the front and rear guard screws securely and the middle screw just enough to hold position...no more.

Free float the barrel the entire length!.

If you can't shoot 2" groups this way then there's something wrong with the action bedding, scope, barrel, etc.

If you can get the 2" groups then you tighten the groups with trying different reloadings such as different bullets etc!

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Originally posted by majestrate98:
I have a Mod 70 chambered in 243 with an Adams and Bennett barrel mounted in a Bell & Carlson Medalist stock. The gunsmith "floated" the barrel when he mounted the barrel. I was getting terrible accuracy and tore the gun down to check all components for tightness. The action screws were very loose, except the middle screw. So I thought the action was being torqued and causing the problem. When I tighten the action screws (front and rear to 65 in-lb, center is very light), the chamber area of the barrel became very tight into the stock. The gun is still not accurate and I'm wondering if this may be the problem.

What is the proper floating zone? Should it free float all the way to the recoil lug? Should the chamber area be supported as it is? Should there be some fore end pressure on the barrel?

Any advice would be appreciated.

See if something here helps.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...&forum_scope=9411043

This could be a never ending debate. but lots of times, a rifle will shoot better with full bedding, or a least a little pressure at the tip. This holds more true for sporter weight barrels.

It won't cost you anything to put a business card or two near the tip and fire a couple groups...at least you'll know.

But, in order for that to work majestrate98, the pressure must be uniform. So, unless you are inletting a stock from scratch as Duane frequently does, the best way to insure the pressure is uniform on production guns would be to remove all contact (free float) and start from scratch. It doesn't cost anything to try a few groups without pressure before adding the business cards.

Remember also, that what pressure there is, will only be uniform until the barrel begins to heat up. Good luck.

Hope this works. I've sanded out the entire barrel channel from the front edge of the recoil lug well to the end. What I found interesting is that once I relieved the chamber area of the stock, there was a new contact point about two inches back of the forend. I can slide two business cards under the barrel now. I've kept the fit between the barrel and stock, so it looks pretty good.

The wind is strong and gusty today, so I will not be able to test this until later this week. I'll be taking a few cards with me to put some forend pressure if the groups don't tighten up.

One more question: If I decide to bed/float the entire length of the barrel, what compound is best? This is a Bell and Carlson composite stock and I've heard some compounds will not adhere properly. Thoughts?

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Originally posted by majestrate98:
Hope this works. I've sanded out the entire barrel channel from the front edge of the recoil lug well to the end. What I found interesting is that once I relieved the chamber area of the stock, there was a new contact point about two inches back of the forend.

This is a common indication that the action is bound. Too much contact under the cylinder portion of the barrel will actually force the front of the barrel up as you pull the action into the stock. Sorta like bending the barreled action in half.

You can tell a lot by the feel of the barrel and action as you tighten and then release the front guard screw while gripping the barrel and forearm with your free hand.

If the barrel wants to climb up and out of the forearm as you release the guard screw, that is a general indication that the rear of the action is sitting too low and needs additional material for support. If the barrel wants to climb up and out as you tighten the screw, that is a general indication that the material under the barrel is too high.

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The wind is strong and gusty today

It's a little windy just up the street from you too.

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I'll be taking a few cards with me to put some forend pressure if the groups don't tighten up.

I hope you plan on trying a few different loads with and without pressure.

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One more question: If I decide to bed/float the entire length of the barrel, what compound is best? This is a Bell and Carlson composite stock and I've heard some compounds will not adhere properly. Thoughts?

With that type of stock it's all in how well you prep it. To quickly fill a large void I would use good ol' Bondo. Be sure to give the channel a final wipe with Acetone.

Just for my own information....back about 15 yrs ago, the Bell and Carlson line wasn't...well...top drawer... Has this changed?

My reason for asking! If the stock is not inherently stable, our shooter may NEVER get consistent grouping

About 25 years ago I was using the compressor to remove some residue from the barrel channel of one of their Carbelite stocks, and today, if I look real close, I can still see the ghostly image of the outline of that stock on my shop wall when the entire paint job on the left side let go and slammed into the wall.

The original stock was like a club, in that it was large and a bit clumsy feeling, but was affordable for those looking for something cheap, was weather resistant that could be abused (except for high wind or a compressor ). It was all that.

Back then if the barreled action was bedded correctly (level), it worked fine. Today they have a few different models and from what I've seen appear to be stable. If I'm not mistaken I think Earl Scheib quit painting them.

Here are the results: I made up duplicates of six different loads. The barrel is fully floated from the action to the tip. I did find some problems with the original inletting as I had to relieve some fore end pressure after the chamber area was relieved.

Running comparisons with both floated and fore end pressure, there is still no consistency. I checked the action screws after each group fired. No changes there. On two of the loads, the fore end pressure walked the shots up and to the right. All the other loads were just erratic.

I think it's time to call about the barrel or turn it into rebar.

I would be curious as to what the crown looks like. Before scrapping the barrel, I would let an old, well, not too old, experienced set of eyes look the barrel over from end to end. Might be able to save you some money.

Have you changed the scope or tried a variety of loads ?

You can try various shims to float the entire barrel or to add a pressure point up front, but to be honest, what do you expect from a cheap A&B barrel?

I checked the scope. It's a Leoupld M4 and on my 22-250, holds the groups solid. I’ve tried six different bullets, three powders and two primers. Seating depths ranged from –0.030” to +0.002” off the lands. Yes, I learned the hard way about A&B barrels. The guy that put the barrel on told me they would shoot under a MOA. I hadn't heard of them before, thought he made me a good deal for barrel and installation. Now that I've done my homework, I'm finding it isn't such a good deal after all. I’m at 351 rounds fired and no improvement. This will be the last A&B barrel for me and, if I can help it, all my friends.

A not so old and experienced set of eyes is now looking it over. The gun is now in the hands of a highly recommended gunsmith to see if it's salvageable or not. We’ll see what comes out of the wash when I pick up my laundry.

Well, the barrel is toast. The gunsmith said it's one of the worst barrels he's seen with less than 500 rounds. That tells you a lot about the quality of an Adams and Bennett barrel. A Shilen barrel is now on order for my gun.

Simply put, and I've been told this a thousand times, you get what you pay for! Don't waste a dime on an Adams and Bennett barrel. The small additional cost for a quality barrel(< $100) is more than saved by the fact that you don't spend twice the money on the barrel fitting and gunsmithing.

Thanks for all the advice.