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Originally posted by craigster:
Aw come on, he's only wants 900 bucks for it.

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Originally posted by kcstott:

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Originally posted by craigster:
Aw come on, he's only wants 900 bucks for it.

Yeah but a Mercedes after it hits a brick wall is only a $100 worth of steel.
This rifle was the victim of a drill press monkey

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First I removed the rear sight with a propane torch since it is soldered on. It has to come off so you can grip the barrel. Heat it up and tap it off with a hammer. It was easy.

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Now it was time to remove the barrel from the action. I bolted my barrel vice to the bench, clamped the barrel in and put the action wrench on the action. There was no way I could remove the barrel. It kept turning in the barrel vice. I adjusted things 10-12 times and absolutely could not stop the barrel from turning. Even tried lead shims - no good. I do not have a very good opinion of the Wheeler barrel vice right now.

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Finally I gave up on the barrel vice. I used a belt grinder to grind a flat on each side of the barrel and then put it in my big bench vice.

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Then I put the barrel in my big bench vice and hammered the handle tight. Nothing I tried would unscrew the barrel. Hand hammer, sledge hammer, cheater bar. Finally I hit it so hard one jaw of my vice broke. I gave up at this point pretty disgusted and exhausted. I’d pulled something in my back. I’d been at this for hours.

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At this point I was real stumped on how I could remove this barrel and along came master mechanic, Bob, and asked what I was doing. I explained and showed him the barreled action. He just looked at it for a moment and said since the barrel is shot why not use a pipe wrench? He put the barreled action on the floor with the action wrench and big pipe wrench on it. He stomped on it a few times and we heard a Crack that was the barrel breaking free from the action. After that it was a simple matter to unscrew the barrel.

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Once the barrel was off I noticed that half of the first barrel thread in the action was damaged. I don’t think this will be an issue because it would have been partially turned off on the lathe during the action facing process. It will just have to be turned a few thousands more than usual. Does anybody know if this action will be OK to use with the face of the action turned a little more that usual or do I have to throw it out?

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Here is a picture of most of the tools I used to remove the charging hump. First I removed the bulk of the hump with a belt grinder. Then I went to work with a mill bastard file and then a smaller file to help shape the charging bridge.