A stuck case can be an easy problem if you make these tools. I used a rough barrel from an 8mm German Mauser as it is like spring steel. Turn down to the bolt size for the type of action being worked on. It needs to be about 7 inches long and use both end for the extractor tool with one for Mag. and the other for standard caliber. This tool has always worked and is quick to use. Use a 1/4 X 20 allen screw to pull around a total enclosed case. Make clearance for the top of the screw so it will tighten up of a case. It has never failed to remove a case if you have the extractor already pull thru the case. A short tool split and about 2 1/2 inches long was used to remove stuck cases from Rem. 740 semi autos without having to pull the barrel out. Look at the pictures and make these tools. It will take only a hour to make and then you can remove a case in about 3 minutes for an easy $25. A live reloaded case was the most common site to see in the shop. No rods needed down the barrel to damage the rifling as most times the customer will already have the barrel packed with all kinds of junk.

Just trying to help from experience,

Do you cut a groove inside the barrel for the rim to lock on to or just rely on friction?

How do you pull on the back of the tool?

Elegant solution Les.

I will make up a couple with single split end, and thread the opposite end to fit one of my slide hammers.

Edit: Slide Hammers

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:
Do you cut a groove inside the barrel for the rim to lock on to or just rely on friction?

How do you pull on the back of the tool?

He is prying against the screw head with the piece of square stock.

I would say, knowing Les, that he has turned a groove inside the barrel section to act like a near 360 degree extractor lip.

quote:

Originally posted by RandyB:
I used a collet from an RCBS case trimmer. Built a drawbar to close the collet and the slide hammer screws to the exposed threads of the drawbar. It was built to remove a live stuck 22/250 round. Worked flawlessly. 2 taps on the slide and out she comes.

Excellent!!!

Turn the inside of the tool the same size as the cartridge you will be extracting to fit around the full case head like a 360* extractor. Split both sides with a hacksaw or use a milling cutter saw. I use the side of the action and use a lever against he receiver to slowly pull the shell. I never use a slide hammer as a primer could fire the shell and all hell would break loose. German 98 scrap barrel steel is like spring steel and it needs to be able to slip over the case. In some actions you may need to remove outer edge that fits into the barrel so the tool can slip over the case head. I know of two times of the primers firing without being in a chamber. One was a tube of shotgun primers for a reloader and the man dropped the tube to the floor and it set off all the primers. His leg looked like he had been in a fight with a couple of cats. Another time a person dropped a box of 9mm Luger ammo and it caused some round to explode in our store. DON'T HAMMER ON ANY SHELL STUCK IN A CHAMBER.

I have a case puller for my Mini Mauser hunting kit just in case I need to pull a round. I will take some pictures today and post later today.

Be Carefull,
Les

Very neat Mr. Brooks. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you. I now have another project. LOL.

I have made and destroyed dozens of those pullers over the years and as a rule they work GREAT ! Be fore warned that you are playing with trinitrotoluene if pulling live rounds. If the round is really stuck, the puller can role the rim over and crush and detonate the primer. This can lead to loud noises, hard feelings and general confusion and unpleasantness. It has happened more than once over the years. Govern yourselves accordingly.