I want to apply a french gray finish to a rifle I'm working on. In other posts I have seen they started with a blued rifle. My parts are in the white and polished, do I have to blue them first? What is the easiest way for a novice to obtain good results with this finish.

Thanks
CJ

Try E. Arthur Brown.......see what they get to do it for you............WWW.eabco.com

You do have to blue the rifle first. The bluing is then changed by a treatment with an agent, usually a weak solution of Muriatic acid and then the acid is neutralized with a baking soda solution.

Engravers are always looking for some method to finish gun metal so the engraving will show up better. I've seen the stripped blue method used with some success. The problem with that method is that it doesn't really do much to protect the metal.

I use a built up phosphate finish for French Gray. Much like parkerizing. only finer. Much, much finer. The application process is more closely akin to rust blue. It usually requires about six coats to get to the desired depth and color. It is light matte in texture and the color finishes up a light dove gray on gun steel and a bit darker on low carbon steel.

It is not as tough or rust resistant as a good quality rust blue. But, I would rate it as equal to a caustic hot blue.

To my own personal liking, I much prefer a good rust blue for looks. Too large an expanse of French gray looks blah. I will admit that French gray does look good on a piece that is fully engraved, especially with gold borders. It also goes very well "with" rust blue on some of the smaller pieces of the rifle for accent. I like to combine rust blue, french gray, color case hardening and Nitre blueing.

I know, I know. It sounds garish as hell, but it's not. It is "Classy".

Roger,

Can you elaborate on your method, or is it proprietary ? I am looking to french gray a Dakota skeleton grip cap, instead of CCH as originally planned. I decided I like the look of silver metal with the black ebony center.

I don't think a combination of CCH, nitre blue, and graying looks pimp-ish, rather very classy. I will ultimately have my ejector box and spring (and all pins / springs / screws) nitre blued, grip cap and bolt handle grayed, and floorplate / Talley rings CCH'd.

BTW I am still planning on having you engrave a panel on my bolt, and engrave the crossbolt heads. The arrival of my twins intervened last spring, before I could get everything ready to send off. But I am almost ready now -- first I have to shoot a deer with it, then I can send the parts off.

Todd

[ 10-18-2003, 18:10: Message edited by: Todd Getzen ]

Hi Todd

Your a man after my own heart. Shoot the deer then finish the rifle. Business first then the fun.

Here's an url to a site that has some photos of my French gray. The color renditions are bit off but the photo of the skeleton grip cap is pretty close to the real color. A little light, but close. Look around the site I think there may be more examples.

French Gray photos

The process is proprietary and I'm not very amenable to sharing the formula. Monetarily it's not worth anything, but it took me too long to figure it out.

BTW congrats on your twins.

Very purdy. That's exactly what I was looking for.

I guess I will just have to send the grip cap to you. Might as well have you engrave something to match the bolt panel on it too. I will contact you by e-mail in a few weeks re: this.

Be well,
Todd

I look forward to getting the stuff.

I do hope the bolt handle hasn't been installed already.

Roger,
It is obvious Todd has some balls, given the twins, but not checkering the skeleton insert??? Now we have to convince him to checker it and show us that the previous evidence was not just a fluke.

[ 10-19-2003, 09:40: Message edited by: Customstox ]