Excuse my ignorance but can anyone explain how to remove the striker/firing-pin assy from a Zastava bolt with the FN-type shroud? I have tried to google the matter but only find YouTubes of military bolts being taken apart.

Thanks in anticipation

Hook the cocking piece on the edge of your workbench, pull down on the bolt, stick a penny in between the shroud and cocking piece, depress the bolt sleeve lock and unscrew.

Don't be cheap, use a dime.

Jeremy

A dremel tool wrench works great for fat fingers.

Penny; I have 4 on my shelf and use one every day. I often hold the cocking piece in the vise too; can't slip that way. Just the bottom square part. That way you can pull sideways instead of push down.
Or hold the firing pin in the vise when I don't want to put another little hole in my bench; but there are already 1000, so why do I bother?

Basically the same procedure as the one used to strip a P-14/M1917 Enfield bolt.

quote:

Originally posted by farbedo:
Don't be cheap, use a dime.

Jeremy

However, on the 1917 bolt, you place the safety ON, with the bolt open; close the bolt and the cocking piece will be retracted enough to place the coin in the slot. No need to hook the sear over anything. Much easier than a Mauser.

Thanks dpcd, xausa and all, I'll feel a bit more secure when checking the bullet/throat clearance of my reloads now. Hopefully we of the South Pacific Peso will have a coin that will also work.

I am going to go way out on a small limb here

The OP stated he has a Zastava Mauser, with the factory streamlined FN shaped sleeve

I just checked the left handed full size action I bought last year and yes my memory is correct.
On the bottom mid section of the cocking piece is a 2mm cross hole.
Hmm it lines up so when the bolt is in the receiver and cocked, you can insert a small nail, piece of 1/16" welding rod or a 1/16" punch into the cross hole

Then raise the bolt handle and retract the bolt to the rear and remove the bolt from the action.
The cocking piece is captivated.

Depress the sleeve lock and unscrew the complete firing pin/sleeve unit from the rear of the bolt.
Just like the FN commercial actions from the 1950's thru the early 1970's, that had the same cross hole in their cocking pieces

This will not work with the aftermarket M70 type sleeves
Just my penny's worth.

James Wisner
ACCG Life Member

You are right, of course, but the little pin technique is actually harder to do than using a penny. Harder to insert and remove, and for most guys, they might not have one. So even on cocking pieces that have the hole, I never use it.

I keep a couple of pennys on my drill press table pr where ever I happen to misplae them for just such a need..

And today I proved why you don't use a pin, even if your cocking piece is drilled for one.
Whilst disassembling a Ruger #1 to remove the barrel, everyone knows that you insert a pin to remove the mainspring/strut. I used a finishing nail for that, a sharp pointed little bastard. A short time later, I grabbed it for some reason, embedding the nail into my right index finger. Blood. Pain. I immediately removed the point with wire cutters.
Problem is, you can't use a penny on a #1.

All most all of my Mausers have a M70 Three position safety unit on them. That makes the take down really simple.

I only have 3 as Mil Mausers and use the old Mil swing over safety when I have to tear them down

dpcd I have three 1914 Enfields with the Traister speedlock in them that I will have to tear down shortly, I will try to use the penny method.

J Wisner

Most of my Mauser sporters have Wisner two position M70 safeties on them!

Thanks James and Ray, too. Though the Wisner safety sounds superior, I don't have a spare wing-safety shroud to cut up so will persist with the sliding safety I've got. If you think it is not safe, though, I'm all ears.