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Howdy ... I have a Mauser small ring , marked "Loewe Manufactura Berlin" barreled action originally chambered in a 7x57 that was all pitted and rough .. So I had it re-barreled to a 6.5x57 Mauser, and did a 2 position safety , straight down bolt handle and new trigger ... ect. But what I need , or would like to have , is fresh bottom metal , Like a Duane Weibe or whoever else makes one . My question is , would the one designed for the Mexican Mauser work for this project ?? The original bottom metal measures 7-5/8" center-to-center at the action bolts ... and the inside length of magazine is 3.115". The ammo I have on hand that I tried is Sellier & Bellot 131gr. measures 3.020" and it really feeds super !! So if anybody has any advice , or ideas where to get sexy new metal , please give me a shout !! Thanks a bunch !! Here are few pictures of the action ..   | ||
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Yep. Any intermediate-length bottom metal will work fine although some have differing magazine box lengths. I've occasionally used the hinged bottom metal (both styles) from the early Herter's J-9 actions as well as the military hinged ones from various countries. My Swede project action has a 1909 TG/FP with the front tang shortened and welded back to the intermediate length. BTW the bolt assembly from an intermediate-length 1898 can be adapted to work in the 1893/4/5 actions although not the Swede ones. It's quite a job but I've done it several times using nothing more than hand tools. Lots of modification steps but none very complicated and the gas-handling is vastly improved. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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-any chance of a capsule version of the step-by-step on this? Sounds hellish interesting... | |||
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I'll second that Does this mod change it to a COO ? ......civilize 'em with a Krag | |||
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Yes it's COO and all 98 aftermarket parts will work. In fact at the observer's first glance it seems to be merely a small-ring 98 since the only real difference is the lack of an internal C-ring. Been a few years since I did the last one but here goes a digest version of the steps. Begin with a complete 98 intermediate-length bolt assembly, the whole thing, and your choice of early receiver. I've used the 1895 Chileans so far, with splendid results. Use of other-model receivers will necessitate different treatments of the anti-bind features but that's easy. Remove the 98 safety lug and bolt guide rib. Alternatively you can use various simple shop tools as a shaper to cut a 98-type guide rib slot inside the rear ring. The Chilean receiver's guide rib is in the middle of the left-side receiver bolt lug raceway and it must be cut down slightly for the 98 bolt to enter freely. The bare 98 bolt should now enter the bare 95 Chilean receiver and cycle freely. The front outer edge of the extractor must be tapered to clear the receiver's threads or else the rear 2 threads must have a small window cut into them for extractor clearance. The top tang must be lowered to provide the slight clearance ledge for the 98 bolt sleeve's gas block. The receiver's ejector slot must be lengthened to the front to allow the use of the longer 98 ejector and you must use either a 98 ejector box or else lengthen the slot in the 95 box. The bolt stop surface on the ejector box must be cut back to the rear at least 0.040" and probably more to allow sufficient ejector protrusion and sufficient rearward bolt travel to ensure proper feeding. The 98 cocking piece is sometimes too tall/deep to enter the receiver's slot and so must be ground shallower on its bottom. The bolt sleeve lock must be lengthened to the front and then it must be properly timed and hardened. This is really the only area of any significant smith frustration factor. Depending upon cartridge choice length you may need to remove some metal from the backside of the receiver's lower recoil abutment. I STRONGLY suggest that you remove as little as possible from this area (grin). As you can imagine, there are many pitfalls not covered in the cursory description above. I'll be happy to answer questions but I don't want to hijack the thread. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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That will make a sweet deer rifle, looks good. Mark Acts 4:12-13;Romans 8:29 | |||
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What do you do about the larger diameter of the M98 bolt boss at the rear of the bolt? Don't you have to enlarge the back of the rear bridge and receiver floor? The M95 bolt is the same diameter full length and doesn't have this step up.
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The 98 bolt will enter freely since the 98 bolt's rear bulge is the same diameter as the 95 bolt sleeve itself. The procedure I used was to cut the top tang's surface lower so as to allow the entry of the 98's bolt sleeve flange ears. This also creates the slight tang ledge that serves as an additional gas block at the bolt sleeve's flange. At this time it's also easy to ensure that the bolt sleeve is 'wedged' into the same repeatable position every time so that the 2-stage military trigger can be tuned to a crisp consistent pull. There are photos on the other thread showing the tang alteration side-by-side with an unaltered one. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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Well I wanna thank each & everybody who shared their knowledge .. Now I need to find a Mexican Bottom metal ... and finish this project ... Thanks .. | |||
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What ever happened to the request to make these threads into a 'sticky'? Not enough interest? BTW for anyone considering such a conversion, I have several intermediate-length bolt and magazine parts for trade, including Swede bottom metal. PM if you're interested. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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