I drilled the hole off center, . So I filled it with acra glass. The screw wouldn't bite in the undersize hole, just reamed it out. I filled the hole with a dowel, same result. My next step is a larger dowel so the whole screw is biting wood and no glass. Any suggestions? Note to self, don't work tired!

Let's see, Glue? longer screw?

The screw is unique to the cap, a Fisher single screw cap, and I'd like to remove it for blueing so no glue I think the glass is the problem I just drilled the same sized hole in a old stock I use for such things and the screw went in normal.

I'd plug it with a smal dowel of contrasting wood, I think I'd use ash or hickory (steal a piece from the end of an old hammer) then if anyone ever noticed it, they'd be in awe at your attention to detail, using a small piece of wood that held the screw better than the stock blank.

Or you could drill it out and mix some 5 minute epoxy for the hole, maybe with a pinch of sawdust from the stock. That would also work but personally I like the contrasting hardwood idea, it will look classier on the finished product.

I always tap the hole before using the correct screw. If the thread is a standard size you can use a socket head cap screw and grind some flutes in it. Drill the tap drill hole using a bushing to keep it perfectly centered and square. I always use a few very small drops of medium thick super glue to hold the cap in the right spot. Run the through the "tack welded" grip cap with your ho made tap using a cut off allen wrench in a drill. Then I harden the threads using a few drops of the runny super glue. It wicks all the way to the bottom of the threads. I coat the correct screw with a little Johnson's paste wax and run it home with a screwdriver that fits. Then pull the screw out and just POP the grip cap with a rawhide mallet to get it loose from the super glue.

I forgot to say that I don't use tap drills recommended from a chart. I try several different sizes in a scrap block of walnut until I get the right fit. Then make the bushing using that drill. I harden my bushings and use them over and over.

If the female threads are too boogered up and a dowel did not do the trick for you, then you can drill the dowel out with a drill maybe twice the size of your screw threads. Coat screw and cap with a good release agent. Fill the hole with acraglas gel. Stick the screw through the cap and put some acraglas gel on the male threads. Set the cap down where it should be and be sure to have the screw bottomed out in the grip cap hole. Also, align the slot like you want it. Use tape to hold the cap and screw down.

If done correctly, this hole repair will outlast you and me.

fwiw,
Have done several with Marine-tex instead of Acraglass Gel. Works very well...

Regards, Matt.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I considered what you suggest Marc I'm just not sure what to use for a release agent. The blue stuff that comes with the acra glass seems like it fills the threads a bit. I used to have some oily stuff that came with steel bed, I think, that I think would work but used it all up.

I also thought of Johnsons paste wax, it works good on other stuff, just paranoid I'd have it coated good but still not filling the the threads or not enough and planting it real good. I just hate the idea of having to drill out a glued in screw. I'm going to play with with your process gunmaker on some scrap. This is the first time I had a problem with a simple screw!

I have had many release agents not work and then wind up with a really cool one piece gun. One time the stock was broken to get the metal out.

BUT...with Johnson's paste wax I have never had one bit of trouble at all. The only release agent that has been 100% successful for me. So ues it and don't worry about it. I use a Q-tip to get inside the hols for the screw in the cap, as well as in the screw slot. I dob the end of my trigger finger in the wax and twirl threads between the finger and thumb. That always workse for me. If you are really worried about it, wait 15 mintues and apply a second coat.

One other thing-do not buff the wax! Just wipe an even coat on and leave it like that. Any ridges of wax will show up in the bedding, so make it smooth. I clean the wax off with acetone.

When I am using epoxy, I cover 100% of the metal with wax. If I have one square inch of bare metal exposed, I can assure you I will wind up with epoxy landing right in the middle of it. I guess I am just lucky that way!

I also use Marine Tex almost exclusively these days. If you go that route, get the grey. I bought some white last time to see if I could color it. I can't.

quote:

really cool one piece gun

Marc--

Now that's an original and clever "cover" for a screw-up (or I guess it is a glue-up).

You can color Marine Tex or any other epoxy for that matter !. What you need is resin pigments Fiberglass or epoxy sales out lets carry them . They are different from lacquer or universal tints sold at paint shops . They don't work period so don't waste your time with those !.

Some Auto urethane paint pigments work but just get them from a fiberglass resin supplier . Colors from A - Z .

Filling holes in a stock or wood for screws is real easy . For matching stock colors .Some resin pigments in brown or black or even yellow and gold for a light tan color . Mix epoxy or polyester resin with pigment add hardner .

Now once set up drill a pilot hole slightly smaller and tap or thread a screw into the hole.
Bingo instant fix .

If you practice you are even able to etch grain patterns in the semi cured matrix with a few simple fine carving chisels .Walnut , Mahogany , Birch are real easy grains to match up !.

For stock repairs it works wonders to slightly under fill a damaged area then sprinkle saw dust in epoxy or resin for the top portion of the fill . Grain to match after sanding down slightly . Then color right away with a stain that matches your stock . Saw dust absorbs some of the stain . The under fill is ( Hopefully ) colored to match as close as possible to the stocks color .

One ends up with nearly an invisible repair !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Dr. K-

With the Marine Tex, I used 2 full tubes of epoxy dye that Brownell's sales. With acraglas gel, 1/3 of a tube will make the epoxy too dark for most woods. With the white Marine Tex, 2 full tubes barely made it turn a light tan.

Can you please reccomend a specific dye that would work well with the Marine Tex? I really like the stuff, and it would be great if I could get it to come close to matching the wood color.

THanks!

Oh yeah-

Dustoffer, when you screw up as much stuff as I do, you must have an open mind and vivid imagination. It is the only way I can keep my butt out of a sling!

I was of the understanding that there's a big difference between the white and grey Marine-Tex. The white is meant for marine fiberglass and plastic repairs and the grey was more general purpose/metal repairs.

I've been told not to mess with the white when used around guns.

Can anyone clarify?

Thx

fwiw,
I've been told there is NO difference between white and grey Marine-tex. I've found zero difference between them aside from tinting the epoxy...

I personally prefer Grey, however, Brownells has sent the last 5 14 ounce containers as white. More tint...

Regards, Matt Garrett.

I tried Marc's suggestion and it worked fine. I was paranoid about getting enough wax on the screw without clogging the threads with it but it all went well. Easy to index the screw this way. Thanks for the suggestions to all.

Too late now but I use home made wood plugs successfully. They are NOT end grain.

Get a plug cutter from rockler.



plug cutter