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mauser action shortning
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<jpruett>
posted
has anyone got any information on shortning a mauser 98 action.
 
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Picture of Mark
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Use the "search" feature here, it was discussed a while ago.
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
jpruett---

I've done them for thirty years. What do you want to know?
 
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<jpruett>
posted
where is the best place to cut the receiver-is .750 shorter the normal-what is the best way to cut it in a lathe or abrasive wheel then face off in lathe
 
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<JBelk>
posted
jpruett---

I've always cut them with a hacksaw through the thumbslot and grind the action back until the tang screw holes are the proper "K" length. (That depends on who's bottom metal you use.) 5/8" reduction is normal. That makes the action 8 1/8 inches long, total.
The two halves are then bolted to the welding block and TIG welded together. It results in an action that has no thumb slot but there is a certain amount of filling needed at the top to attain it.

I see no way, or need, to face the halves in the lathe. There should be a gap of .020 or so between halves and a generous "J" groove for the filler rod on both sides of the action.

[ 10-10-2002, 01:31: Message edited by: JBelk ]
 
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Picture of D Humbarger
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I found this. Put the receiver on a mandrel with a lathe dog & cut almost all the way through. finish cutting through with a good hack saw blade.
 -

[ 10-10-2002, 04:26: Message edited by: Bear Claw ]
 
Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I once took 2 K98's and cut them at different places so as to make one long and one short. I used the method that Bear Claw pictured above. As of today I have the actions ready but no finished bottom metal. It was not as difficult as it seems.Mark
 
Posts: 109 | Location: Sask.Ca | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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A book called
"The Gun Digest Book of RIFLESMITHING, The Art and Science of Rifle Gunsmithing"
by Jack Mitchell

has a chapter dedicated to shortening the action, but it was done on a classic Winchster 70.

Pyrotek
 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I'd bet dollars to donuts that the picture posted by Bear Claw is from the Mitchell book. It sure looks familiar.

Jack - if you are still reading this - any thoughts on welding up bolt faces and extractors for smaller diameter cartridges ? I've got a notion to shorten a 96 Swede and chamber it for .308x39

Regards,
Scott
 
Posts: 117 | Location: Sierra Foothills, CA | Registered: 14 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of D Humbarger
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one in the same
 
Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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A gunsmith north of Houston that I use on occasion had a neat mannlicher stocked, 20" barrelled "cut" 98 in 250 Savage sent to him for sight replacement. What a beauty...my dream rifle. Jack, what's the cost to do the "chop and channel" of a 98 action and magazine/floor plate?
 
Posts: 354 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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quote:
Originally posted by Ed:
A gunsmith north of Houston that I use on occasion had a neat mannlicher stocked, 20" barrelled "cut" 98 in 250 Savage sent to him for sight replacement. What a beauty...my dream rifle. Jack, what's the cost to do the "chop and channel" of a 98 action and magazine/floor plate?

Ed,
Email me, and I'll give you one of the smith's numbers around here that do it..

That being said, you can buy a charles daly "kurtz" with a 7.62x39 boltface for less than 300.
Jeffe
 
Posts: 39719 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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