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Where can I buy "Faux Ebony" ?
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Picture of fla3006
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Does anyone have a source of "faux ebony" (walnut impregnated with black pigment) for use on forend tips? Lately I am having very bad luck with genuine ebony splitting even after I apply a sealant. Brownells used to sell it but no longer. Thanks!
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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On another board there was a guy that wanted his whole stock to be black, What was suggested to him was to use some Black Leather Dye followed by Tru-oil
Perhaps you can try somthing like that on some scrap walnut blocks and see how you like it.
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I've used India ink and it worked well. Cut your tip to final dimension (prior to glue up) and then submerge it in the ink and let it soak for a couple of days. Let dry for several days as it will expand the wood a bit from moisture. Use a glue like epoxy resin to prevent bleed back into the stock wood. Loked pretty good.
 
Posts: 312 | Location: B.C., Canada | Registered: 12 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Fiebings leather dye. Once it has set it doesn't bleed either.
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
<Rezdog>
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To make faux ebony out of walnut or oak: Take a handful of rusty nails and soak them in a jar full of vinegar for a couple of weeks, shaking occaisonally. When the resulting liquid is applied to any wood containing tannin (e.g. walnut and oak) it will turn it black. The water in the mix will raise the grain so be prepared to add another coat or two after sanding. I have also used aniline dye stains, available from masny fine woodworking dealers, with success. Also, the spice Tumeric will impart a rich yellow stain and potassium permanganate will give an antique effect however it will fade. Ammonia will darken oak (apply sparingly -- it works fast and deep).
 
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Fla3006 try the ebony from Texas Knife Makers
there in Houston I've not had any problem with their wood. They have several varities & you can look them over a choose the best.

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NRA Life member

 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Bear: Texas Knifemakers only has small pieces. Dakota Arms used to use and sell faux ebony but can't get it anymore (supplier went out of business). Like me, they say they wish they could, because real ebony has a bad tendency to crack. Guess I'll try soaking a piece of walnut in dye for awhile and hope it sinks in deep.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I have never had ebony crack on me. Not once in an awful lot of tips. I did have cape buffalo horn crack just as I got the shape right, grrrrrrrrrrrrr. I buy it in long pieces and I don't use about 1/2 inch of the ends.

chic

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I've never had ebony split on me either until recently. I may just have a bad piece of ebony stock. It was a 2x2x12 inch blank, covered with wax, no internal cracks. I cut two 2" pieces and fitted the two pieces to two different stocks, sealed the unfinished work with True Oil, and had both crack in several places. Very frustrating at any rate after all the work. I'm not a professional stockmaker, just a hobbiest, but I have installed probably 8 forend tips prior to these. The Dakota people and my other stockmaking friends tell me it is important to seal ebony very well after you shape and finish it to prevent cracking.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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