Would anyone care to elaborate on this topic? What does the P-14 require to get it ready for Rigby and 500 Jeffery size rounds?

I'd particularly like to hear from Paul H on this topic, since I know you own one!

I am planning to do this over the winter. I will use remodeled P-17 bottom metal / magazine. It will be a classic express rifle -- no scope, quarter rib, band front, etc. My smith has been doing this conversion with Ultramags and getting good results, and then of course there is (was) A-Square and their rifles.

Thanks in advance for you help.

Todd Getzen

P.S.>> I am also interested in any other P-14/17 alterations, cosmetic or functional, that you know about. I am already planning to have the rear bridge hole filled in, and both rings recontoured to use Mauser bases.

Todd:

What I did on mine for scope bases is to use a standard M700 front base, machined the rear receiver bridge flat, and fitted a Leupold gunmakers base on the rear. Rather than fill the rear hole, I machined the bottom of the base with a portion to fit in the hole. The portion of the base that fits the hole also acts as a recoil lug on the base, so that there is much less chance of shearing base mounting screws on the ultra-hard kickers.

Mine was originaly built as a .458 Lott, but since I have another rifle in .458 Lott, I am trying to decide what to turn this one into. I was also thinking of either the .500 Jeffery or the .416 Rigby.

With all due respect, this is an idea you had better first lie down and pray it goes away! I recently built a 470 MBOGO on a 1917 Winchester Enfield and it was far from simple. First, you need to use a P14 bolt so that there is sufficient metal left when opened up to .590 for the extractor ears to hold the cartridge. A 1917 bolt just doesn't have enough metal. This gets even worse if you want a .640 gibbs action. You also have to deepen the bolt face and adjust the extractor. Next you have to open up the bottom of the rails with a carbide 3/8 ball mill at a angle sufficient to fit your new magazine box. I have the exact angles if you want them. The feed ramp aslo has to be milled at a 45 degree angle and a new magazine box ( or just buy a wisner or blackburn ) fabricated. A metal stud for the trigger spring needs to be fabricated and silver soldered in place , then the action machined back for clearance. The new barrel must be coned and a extractor cut machined in to clear your new P-14 extractor. It is also a wise thing to now convert to cock on open using a dayton Traister kit. This of course assumes you have already done the basic work of grinding off the sight ears and other cosmetic approaches to the 1917 enfield.
Frankly, there are not that many gunsmiths left who can do what I have described these days for under $500 and I would strongly advise just buying a CZ550 in .416 Rigby and going from there. I hope this helps.-Rob

Robgunbuilder,

The details you mentioned are exactly what I am looking for. I'm afraid this idea won't just go away, I like both the Enfield action and the 500 Jeffery! I am starting with a P-14, so that's good. I told my smith about the bottom metal options and he laughed at the price, saying he could work with P-17 parts for a fraction of that -- course it won't be as pretty, but that's ok. If you could forward the rail specs, etc. that would be great; the Rigby and Jeffery dimensions are close it enough to get it started.

Thanks,
Todd

RGB,

Forgot to add -- are you still making any of those 2nd recoil lugs from a while back?

Todd

Hi Rob, how was the safari? I'd like to see those specs too, please. I have a few more P14's to play with and the winters here are long. Thanks - Dan

Rob, I could sure use those specs also if you don't mind giving them up. Like Dan I still have a few P14 and P17 actons left and my winters are even longer than Dans'. Smokey

You got that right, Smokey. I've lived and worked in Yellowknife a couple of times, and no desire to do it again. My old joints just won't work at fifty below anymore. - Dan