Anyone have a reply, please!!!!????
EC

contact a jeweler or one of those shops that make trophys and plaques. They may be able to put something on that'l look right.

I don't know anything about laser etching. I stamp mine, but I am an amateur. In gunsmith school, they used a Pantagraph which uses a carbide tip to engrave the caliber, etc. The ones I've got that are pantagraphed look as good or better than factory. Call a couple of gunsmiths in the area; it should be pretty cheap to get it done.

You may have to find a closer gunsmith. I chased this rabbit a few years back and could not find ANYONE willing to touch a gun...too afraid of trouble with the law.

Look for a gun engraver in your area. He will be happy to do it for you. Probably cost you 4-5 dollars per letter.



You can take it to a jeweler, but the drag pantographs only scratch the lettering in to about .001 in depth and it doesn't look anywhere as nice as hand cut lettering.







You can't tell from the photograph, but the thick sections of the letter are probably .008-.010 deep. This lettering is about .100 in height.

Thats kind of expensive for a .22 Ergensplitenloudenboomer Ackley Improved.

tiggertate,
Then call it a .22 ELB AI and fly to the Islands on the difference.

Might pay for a taxi to Galveston. Good idea.

Good quip, Chic.

I have a similar problem. My rifle is finished and rust blued but the serial number is on the action under the stock line. If I have the serial number engraved somewhere visible, what has to be done to the blueing?

Your kind of stuck with trying to cold blue the lettering after it is cut.

Your kind of stuck with trying to cold blue the lettering after it is cut.

That is precisely why I always insist on a stock line scribed onto the metal. The scribed line precludes any problems.

Have it engraved. It might looks OK bright against the blue.

Thanks, not really what I wanted to hear, but thanks anyway. Can the cold blue be kept within the new lettering, or will it really stand out?

Scrollcutter,

You mean scribe the stock line on the metal prior to the bluing? So then if it is going to have the serial under the stockline you would engrave before the bluing?

One other thing not suggested that might work and you wouldn't have to worry about cold bluing, is gold enlay. I don't know how much Roger charges for that on letters, but if you have seen some of his photos recently you will know what I am talking about as far as how good it looks. Or what about German silver?

Are those possible options, and what would that run per letter?

Red

PS
Scrollcutter, what about crests on mausers, do you recut those? I don't need one on a current action, but had a brazilian one time that was going to have to be surface ground and the crest would have been thing afterwards.

I doubt that the cold blue will be contained within the lettering. The area around the lettering will probably be slightly discolored from the background. One other option would be to dip the action into a hot blue tank. You would wind up with a uniform blue on the action. You might want to over blue the entire rifle.

Red,

Engraving needs to be completed prior to the finishing of the arm.

The inlay is out of the question. The gold must be flushed off with the base metal, thereby removing the surrounding blue. Plus, gold inlayed lettering is fairly expensive. It is so labor intensive that I generally try to disincline gold lettering when engraving is done on a budget.

Check out my post on gold inlays in this forum.