The extractor on my 700 XCR broke and I'm wondering if anyone knows whether there's a difference between the Rem factory replacement part and some of the aftermarket parts. Willing to pay more for quality. Still need to check with Remington directly and hopefully it's covered under warranty.

Caliber is 338 Win Mag. Gun is fairly new - about 60 rounds through it so far for barrel break-in and load development. I want to make sure I get a quality part so there's almost zero chance of this ever happening again. Especially during a hunt.

Thanks all.

So what's a quality part and how can you guarantee it won't fail. It's mechanical, it may fail.

HuntingOutWest,

I don't know of another source for the Remington factory-style extractors. Mostly, I think they're pretty good and reliable. In tests, they out-extract claw extractors. I think people hot rod loads in Remingtons and get stuck cases/extraction failure/extractor failure more frequently than with less popular rifle actions. Though I see where you'd be nervous with a failure at 60 rounds.

People do put Sako and M16 style exractors on them to allow opening or bushing down bolt face and for ease of assembly and dis-assembly, but I think they have less extraction power with the retrofit and the retrofits break open the bolt face making them not unsafe, but less safe than the "3 rings of steel" in case of case failure.

Hope this helps,
Steve

I bought a riveted extractor from brownells. It was for a 270 win.
My gunsmith suggested a Sako extractor instead. My experience is that the sako extractor will work, but are finicky and need the correct ejector pressure to perform.
I prefer replacing the original extractor first as it is superior.
The brownells extractor worked well.

Sorry, when I said I didn't know of another source for Remington style extractors, I meant I didn't know of anybody else making them in the same style (out of different spring steel, or whatever). As Dead Eye notes, Brownells and Midway both sell Remington extractors.

"out extract claw extractors" Well..In over 40 ears at the bench I replaced one 98 extractor..When a Remington warranty station, we kept a BIG supply of extractors, reordered frequently.

The design of he 98 extractor is that it acts like a Chinese finger prison and is a whole lot beefier than the 700 type.

Like to hear other experiences on this one because I just don't buy it.

Sorry, Duane. Of course you're right that the Mauser type claw extractor is stronger/tougher/less likely to break than the Remington extractor.

I was trying to compare extracting force, and meant to compare the available retrofits, which I should have called hook extractors.

One of my profs at Trinidad mentioned that there'd been tests of the Remington extractor vs the claw extractor (can't find this w/internet seach, other than references on forums; Stuart Otteson's book says that Remington claimed 300lb extracting force vs 150lb for standard extractor back when first introduced) Anyway, he said testing found the claw would let go of the rim where the Remington extractor would tear the stuck cartridge's rim off.

To your point, there are way more broken Remington extractors than claw extractors. The Remington holds on and extracts with a lot of force though.

But what I'd meant to compare were the hook extractor (not claw extractor) options that I was aware of as conversions for a Remington 700.

And I've had people tell me they think the Sako is longer-lived/less likely to break than the Remington version, too, but that it's more likely to slip. No testing, just personal observation from gunsmiths who've installed them and worked with them. Though the Sako is not retained except by spring pressure and can blow out back at the shooter in a case failure. Doesn't very often, but has happened in worst-case situations.

Anyway, sorry, you're right. Didn't mean to imply the claw extractor was more fragile.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the responses. I took the rifle into my local gunsmith last night and he informed me that this isn't an uncommon problem with the factory extractors in 700s. He's going to replace the extractor with one from Brownell's. Should be good to go after that.

skl1: Appreciate the response..I believe the 700 will tear out a portion of the brass as you noted due to the fact there is less area of engagement...probably less than the SAKO.

Fact is, they will all work if not put to the test of a hot rodder handloader

The original Mauser 98 extractor has a half dovetail that corresponds to the same in the bolt nose. As Duane pointed out is is like a finger puzzle because the harder you pull back the deeper it gets drawn into the extractor groove of the case. M93,94,96 extractors nor most modern facsimiles don't have the feature and the extractor can pull over the rim. I was working on a Kimber Montana today and noticed it does have the M98 style.

I work at a Remington Warranty Repair Center. I have replaced many extractors. We keep a fair quantity on hand. Almost all were due to either hot handloads or rusty chambers. There is also varied quality of the extractor. The extractor is a type of spring and must be hardened and drawn properly. Done this way they should serve a lifetime of normal use. They will indeed tear the rim off a case. All out of proportion to their size. Due in part to tough steel and the springiness that drives them into the extractor groove. We see a few that are soft and become deformed. Fortunately the new ones (except Mags) don't use the rivet and can be popped in.

Chamber condition is an issue with many firearms and M700's are no exception. If you own a M700 and are handy you should have a split aluminum dowel in your toolbox. We use old shotgun cleaning rod sections in the shop. Rusty corroded chambers cause a lot of extraction problems. Take a hacksaw and cut a slot about 2-3 inches longitudinally down the shaft. Then cut strips of 600 grit aluminum carbide paper that width. Push an end through the slot. Wrap them right to left around the dowel and back with a cleaning patch. Adjust length to get a tight fit in chamber. Chuck in an electric drill motor and spin into the chamber. Give it about 10 seconds at a medium speed. Remove oil and polish again.

I have had brand new Remington extractors fail to extract.
Rusty chamber? Hot rodding? Nope.
Off the assembly line junk? Yep

Like I stated above you can get a bad one. Is the extractor slipping off the rim or is the case stuck in the chamber?

The extractor would not grab the rim.

Sounds like a soft extractor. It's not springing back to to grab the case. Could also be jammed in it's groove by a burr. Outside chance boltface is is wrong for caliber. Magnum boltface in a stnd caliber action.

Remington extractors go by years of manufacture, or like 60s 70s etc, so one even if found, won't necessarily work. I don't know of any aftermarket ones. Tried several years ago to get a new one for my pre 70 700 and was told by Remington, you got the last one for the time frame. You can get a Sako type extractor, in stalled, for like a $150 I think. I had to have one on a 721 I had. But it won't break. I personally don't know of any after market ones, and was looking for 6 weeks till I got smart and contacted Remington. They would be the best folks to have one and you can send your bolt to them and have it installed etc. by them, so know it will be right.