Guys:

I want to try KG Koting a barreled action. I am all set up (built an oven, etc.), but I could use a little advise on the best method to keep parkerizing solution out of the bore. My plan is to blast everything with 120 grit silica, parkerize the metal and then KG Kote, but I don't want any parkerizing solution to seep into the bore.

I was thinking of driving a tapered hardwood dowel into the muzzle a short distance, but wat about the breech end??

Thanks,

Jordan

You can put a wood plug in the chamber too.

Many gunsmiths don't even plug the bore. They say the bore is so smooth that the solution doesn't etch it much.

Wood plugs, golf "T"s. rubber bottle stoppers, toothpicks for gas ports, whatever it takes.

I use wooden plug when I can. You can spray paint the bore and chamber with a fast drying laqure and easily remove it when your done. Boiling water won't bother the paint....Tom

If you don't degrease and sandblast the metal, the park doesn't do anything.

Use bore plugs from Brownell's, part number 082-201-100. We always use these when parkerizing, spraying on various baking top coats and when bead/sand blasting.

Tony

I wouldn't bother parkerizing and then using Gunkote, I'd do one or the other.

KG has a "phosphating" chemical you can apply before the gunkote, but it is not parkerizing (it even goes on and stays clear).

Also, it is recommended to use AlOx to blast and not silica. I Gunkoted a rem 700 CM action with a shilen SS barrel screwed into it, and first thing I did was glass bead it to see if I could be cheap and not have to make another Brownells order, and while the beads cleaned it up it was nowhere rough enough. I'd be hesitant to use the silica, as it might not hold the gunkote in the long run and of course you won't find out for another 6 months.

A bullet of correct caliber tapped into the muzzle is a very effective plug. Brownells (or Midway) chamber plugs work pretty well for the chamber.

By "silica", I suspect you mean sand as a blasting media? Probably a bad choice. Either the sand will be coated to reduce dust, in which case the coating used may not be conducive to proper adhesion of the KG, or there will be lots of dust to deal with.

Aluminum oxide produces some dust, but the finish is very uniform and there are no compatibility issues with the coatings.

Nothing wrong with parkerizing before coating, just make sure that you don't touch the substrate with your bare hands after blasting.

Wood plugs are what are used in the UK. Just one tip! Make sure the bore is good and hot and not cold (pour boiling water down it) BEFORE you put the plugs in.

Otherwise as hot air expands you might just "pop" them out when least wanted!

I've used plugs from Shercon made of numerous compounds and they're FULL PROOF for plugging a variety of items .
FYI ; Use a powerful degreasing agent followed with either use of a blast media or Acid etching method . Acid uses a neutralizing bath tap water and baking soda ,followed by Distilled water bath an finally acetone rinse , .
I prefer acid etching as it's Completely uniform ,several types of acids could be used I prefer Hydrochloric acid .
Use "inert" gloves !. I use Nitrile Gloves , EYE protection with a splash suit or apron . I know it may sound scary but it's easy quick and UNIFORM .

http://www.shercon.com/shercon...rSelectionGuide.aspx

You guys realize that gunkote is basically a paint, right?

You spray it on and then bake it. I see no advantage to putting a traditional parkerizing on it and then sandblasting that off, or applying the gunkote over the parkerizing without sandblasting.

Now, supposing you want to skip the KG and just parkerize it, then I'd suggest whittling a slight taper in some wooden dowels and tapping them into the bore, then you can use the dowels for handles.

Mark,

Coating after parkerizing is not an uncommon practice. They don't parkerize, blast it off, then coat. Basically the way it is done is that they do all the metal prep (degrease, dry, blast) then parkerize. Once parkerized, the coating is applied over the parkerized finish.

Personally, I think that if it adds any protective benefit to the coating, then the coating is probably crap and you should use something else. However, I've heard of quite a few people doing it this way, so they must be convinced.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
You guys realize that gunkote is basically a paint, right?

You spray it on and then bake it. I see no advantage to putting a traditional parkerizing on it and then sandblasting that off, or applying the gunkote over the parkerizing without sandblasting.

Now, supposing you want to skip the KG and just parkerize it, then I'd suggest whittling a slight taper in some wooden dowels and tapping them into the bore, then you can use the dowels for handles.

Mark,
Many years ago I worked at a plant that made artilary shells and was in-charge of the parkerizing tanks. There are two types of phosphate coating used as a substrate for paint, manganize and zinc. Iron phosphate is used on bolts. Zinc phosphate is the best under paint. It has a scratch life of 20 years. In Alasks they find that phosphate and gunkkote is the only thing that will work there for CM barrels. Once you have the barrel parkerized don't touch it with your bare hands and coat and bake it right away. It is an amazingly tough coating.......Tom

Thanks for the knowledge CAS and Tapper, I was unaware that it has been done like that.

Just goes to show that you learn something new every day!


Mark

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
You guys realize that gunkote is basically a paint, right?

You spray it on and then bake it. I see no advantage to putting a traditional parkerizing on it and then sandblasting that off, or applying the gunkote over the parkerizing without sandblasting.

Now, supposing you want to skip the KG and just parkerize it, then I'd suggest whittling a slight taper in some wooden dowels and tapping them into the bore, then you can use the dowels for handles.

I used foam ear plugs when I painted my rifle to plug the bore.

Would that work with the Gunkote since it's like painting?

Yes, foam ear plugs work for painting but not for blasting with abrasive.