I have a Winchester Classic Super Express in .375 AI with the factory wood stock and a Rimrock Synthetic stock, both pillar bedded by Answer Products. I had the barrel cut to 22" a long ways back and have regretted it ever since.Also, It never was very accurate.

Well, now to the project.I bought a new Winchester factory takeoff barrel, 22" in .458 Win Mag, a barrel vise and an action wrench. A few minutes of reading directions, a little elbow grease and I've changed barrels. The .458 barrel is a duplicate of the .375, dimension wise, it it cinched up real nice to the index marks and looks great!
Now I need some advice. Everything seems OK, the .458 cases feed and seat and the bolt closes just like it did before. The only difference between the two barrels is no secondary recoil lug on the .458.

Questions!!!! Will it blow up if I shoot it? Will the pillar bedding handle the recoil without stock failure? What haven't I done that should be done? Incidentally, the rifle now weighs 8lbs w/o scope in the Rimrock stock and handles like a dream.
I will greatly appreciate some expert input!

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Phil- Life Member NRA & SCI

Hi Phil R.
First you will need to headspace it and make real sure that it is correct. Not always will a barrel from a different rifle headspace in a different action even of the same model.
BE SURE TO HEADSPACE IT!!!!! BEFORE YOU FIRE IT!!
The stock or bedding job will not be harmed in any way. The only problem I can see with the bedding is that even with a same conture barrel, it might not fit the bedding the same as the other.
I believe your rifle was floated from the forward recoil lug on out. There is a good chance that you may get some unwanted pressure on the barrel before the lug.
I guess you will just have to drop it in the stock and see for your self if it is ok, I.E. the barrel not contacting the barrel channel anywhere except bfore the forward lug. And then AFTER HEADSPACING shoot it and see how she does.
Celt

When I started typing this was the first reply. Celt gave the same advice as I so I am removing mine. Sean

[This message has been edited by LoneEagle (edited 04-06-2002).]

[This message has been edited by LoneEagle (edited 04-06-2002).]

Celt,
I believe that you may have done the work on this rifle during your time at Answer products. The former barrel has a secondary lug on the barrel that was bedded in the forearm of the stocks. The .458 barrel doesn't have a secondary lug and free floats from the front of the chamber to the muzzle although there seems to be a little binding at the barrel taper. I will definitely not shoot the rifle until it has been checked for proper headspace. The threaded area from the barrel shoulder to the face of the breech measured the same on both barrels.I realize that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing and appreciate the input.Celt, when is your shop going to be open?

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Phil- Life Member NRA & SCI

Well, the go gauge and the no-go gauge both go so I guess it's time for a Model 70 mechanic. Any suggestions? I appreciate the help.

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Phil- Life Member NRA & SCI

I'm not a gunsmith, but it sounds like you need to set the barrel back (lathe off exactly 1 thread from the end of the barrel and the same amount from the shoulder) followed by recutting the chamber / throat.
You might consider having a gunsmith do this job for you. On a positive note the setback might ease the binding at the taper for you.

Thanks Tailgunner. Any suggestions for a good shop?

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Phil- Life Member NRA & SCI

The gunsmiths I use are both here in MI. Kind of a long way for you. Who do your local gunshops use for their repairs ?