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Eddystone Enfield
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I have an opportunity to buy an Eddystone P17 Enfield action in very good condition for $125. I am thinking of future projects. Is the Eddystone action OK and is this price reasonable. Thanks for any input.
 
Posts: 915 | Location: Breckenridge, TX, USA | Registered: 24 November 2001Reply With Quote
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For $125 the 1917 Eddystone is a good buy IMHO. These actions with ONE HECK OF ALOT OF WORK can handle just about anything, although you can spend a fortune on them. I usually don't use Eddystones myself preferring Winchesters as the information I have is that the Winchesters had better heat treating. Many gunsmiths won't work on these actions anymore as they tend to be extremely hard to machine and require fixtures that are uncommon. If your ever interested, I have a take off 300 winchester barrel for the Enfield and and old stock that I could be enticed to part with.-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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OK Rob, Thanks. It seemed like a reasonable buy to me. Appreciate the info.
 
Posts: 915 | Location: Breckenridge, TX, USA | Registered: 24 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Sounds like a good buy to me too, I was offered an Eddystone for $150 last spring so I don't think you will lose any money on the deal.
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Eddystones receivers can be hard and cracked.The cracks usually are from the barrel removal,they fit super tight against the receiver.Check there if it's a second barrel.The barrels were dated and match.BTW most parts don't match.( E,R,W )Old gunsmithing books are wealth of tips for these rifles.
 
Posts: 480 | Location: B.C.,Canada | Registered: 20 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for all the info guys.
 
Posts: 915 | Location: Breckenridge, TX, USA | Registered: 24 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Bob, one way to avoid cracking the reciever when removeing the old barrel is to chuck it in a lathe. Cut from the barrel back to just kiss the reciever face, you will eventually relive all stress and the barrel will turn right out, usually by hand then.
 
Posts: 941 | Location: VT | Registered: 17 May 2001Reply With Quote
<audsley>
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One way to check for cracks is to immerse the action in gasoline and then let it dry out. When the surface is dry, check the action over carefully. The gasoline seeps into the cracks where it stays wet longer making the crack visible. I found this a while back in an old gunsmithing book. I'm sure other fluids such as carburetor cleaner would work just as well.
 
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And to make it even more visible spray it with an athletes-foot spray that has talcum powder in it after you have dried it off.
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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The Eddystones are hard on the outside and hard and tough on the inside. You will probably need a carbide drill to drill your scope mount holes. The problem becomes tapping it after you worry the holes in. There is also the gaping hole under the rear sight to deal with. I personally would not use and Eddystone. Find a Winchester, I think Winchester did not have the hole under the sight?, that someone has butchered up. Restore the Eddystone. You don't want to get mixed up in a tool eating monster.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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To the best of my knowledge, Winchester and Eddystone had the receiver hole, the Remingtons did not. - Dan
 
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001Reply With Quote
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I'm on the trail of another action. It's a butchered up "sporterized" rifle in a friends pawn shop. It's not an Eddystone but he hasn't answered me as to whether it's a Remington or Winchester. Thanks for all the information.
 
Posts: 915 | Location: Breckenridge, TX, USA | Registered: 24 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Perfect! Finish someone elses project. Things I do to enfields.
1. copy the M-700 contour for the rear receiver bridge.
2. remove the clip slots.
3. loose the bolt stop button and replace it with a little block of metal soft soldered to the spring.
4. replace the bolt handle, beating it straight will look to long. You can also straighetn it and replace the handle ala M-30.
5.Loose the bottom metal, at very least the rails around the box. Devise a hinged floor plate and catch.
6. File the safety button to a pleasing conour.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Thanks Scot, I'll give this to whoever does it for me.
 
Posts: 915 | Location: Breckenridge, TX, USA | Registered: 24 November 2001Reply With Quote
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