Its a shame that those of us who don't fully understand how to modify the Mauser to feed cartridges other than the 8 X 57 and 7 X 57, but would like to know have to read through all of this and still not have our questions answered.

JBelk:

This is not an intended argument comment, I'm trying to gain a better understanding of your technical assessment.

On the Montana vs Others thread you said:
I realize that most people on this board haven't seen the pictures of maimed and blinded shooters with scraps of M-70 shroud locks, springs and brass stuck in their eye sockets, but I have.

Here, I think you said the most economical, dependable,and valuable rifle is the M70? I'm not sure of your position on the M70. Thanks for any clarifications.

Phantomduck,

You are correct. Let me try this.

Wby 460. I have successfully modified 2 Interarms MarkX Mausers to house and feed the 338/378 KT round. These rounds are based on shortened, full diameter 378/460 brass cases. This required the complete remachining of the magazine well of the action. New feed rails were formed to contain the massive case as it was widened. All lengthening was done to the rear of the magazine well. The ejection port and rear bridge was altered to correct the swing or departure angle of the brass as it was ejected from the receiver.

A new magazine box was built and the original follower was retained and rebuilt to provide the correct "stack angle" from which to provide flawless feeding from both sides. The modification for this size round unfortunately yielded only a 2 round capacity which was what the customers desired.

How far could a mauser be safely opened? I don't know. I don't intend to be the one to find out. These two rifles that I built, have traveled the world and are still in use today. They function extremely well. About the most I will open one these days, is for calibers based on the 375 H&H and their Improved versions, as in the 450 AI and the 475 AI's...

Regards,

Malm

This is for jbelk, I don't need a smartass answer! I am asking for some good advice!!!!!
If you don't have anything good to say, then don't say anything. I did not ask about price or
anything else! I just asked for some GOOD suggestions. Thank you very much! For some reason you seem to think you are the guru. Well buckwheat!, you ain't the
be all, to end all!. Geese, am I tired of all these 'expert riflemen' . All I am asking for
is for some 'good info' , not some BS. If that is too much to ask for just let me know.

DBKING,

I think JBELK's reply was fairly direct. He asked, what caliber did you intend to open up for. That's not outta line in my view. And, as he pointed out, nothing's impossible provide you have pockets deep enough.

I'd suggest if you had really wanted an answer rather than a fight you might have taken the time to specify what cartridge you were contemplating.

-M

DBKing, take a prozac. You asked a very broad question and he asked you to be specific. If you wanted some good advice you could have complied and gotten a good answer from Jack.

He does have good information to give as does Malm but when you come off like some total jerk, you will likely get nothing. These guys are giving their time and expertise for the benifit of those that need it. They have better things to do.

Think a bit about apologizing, it might do wonders but your attitude sure won't.

Buliwyf--

My stand on the pre-64 M-70 is meant to be consistant, but I can see where a critizim and a praise on the same board can be confusing.

The pre-War M-70 is probably the best major factory rifle that's ever been made in this country. The pre-64 is nearly as good, up until about 1959.

Having said that---- the metallurgy is TERRIBLE. The heat-treat is WAY too hard for a poor forging. They can blind you with gas and fragments, and they come apart like a grenade when things go wrong. The stock finish might as well be soap, it washes off with water. They weren't sealed and stocks warped because they were still green.

But they're still the best made in this country. NOT the strongest. Not the slickest, and probably not the most accurate, but still the "best" factory made rifle from the USA.

The old Model 70 is a workhorse who's value seems to never diminish. You can buy one, use it hard for 50 more years, never have a problem with it or a failure.......then sell it at a profit. That's a GOOD rifle....

But they take some work to make them *really* good.

It's ALWAYS a good thing when a design is changed to reflect known problems and improvements. It nearly never happens with firearms.

In the U.S. any "improvements" from the factory have been to make them cheaper to build, NOT safer, better, more accurate, better looking or longer lasting.

A Model 70 is a cheap, poor, and relatively dangerous imitation of a rifle when compared with Mauser M-98s built in the 1930s.

But the Model 70 was set up for a scope. And cost 50% less. It was made in America at a time we were nearly at war with Germany, too.

For the dollar spent, the best deal on a life-time rifle are pre-64 M-70s, right now. They're MANY times more *valuable* than anything new on the market, with the possible exception of the CZ.

That reminds me........I don't have one right now.

Thank you very much Mr. Belk. I place a lot of faith in your opinion.

GMalmborg and others, thank you for taking the time to reply.

I am getting some type of 375 H&H. What would the disadvantages of one on a Mauser action be? Should I look in that direction or just get a M-70 classic action?

Howard,

One disadvantage might be how the Mauser was lengthened to house a .375 length cartridge. Another disadvantage might be which Mauser action you're considering. Either one will probably serve you well but if in doubt, choose the Winchester, if those two are your only choices...

Good luck,

Malm

the action would be an argetine and it hasn't been lengthened yet.

Howard,

My personal experience would dictate getting that action re-cased before it is ever fired, especially if you're going to sink in the $$$ for Blackburn bottom metal as needed to open it to the rear. This is a highly debatable topic, but from my own experience with one (1) 1909 action, I will never forego this step.

Don't shy away from using it though, I think it is one hell of an action; no comparison in my book. If you spend the money to get it done well, you'll be happy.

FWIW,
Todd

Todd what do you mean by recased?

I think Todd means re-heat-treated ......

Howard,

sdgunslinger got it right, I mean get it re-case hardened. Blanchard Metal finishing in Utah (SLC) will do it for $75. You have to give them specs -- I'll have to look it up for sure, but I think it was .025" depth and Rc 35. All metal shaping and smoothing must be done first, because it's an all-over case.

Todd

Todd thanks.

Howard,
One thing you want to check on is the Blackburn large capacity round bottom metal for the 98 Mauser. I think Jack will agree with me on this. I was thinking of doing the same thing, .375, on a 1909 action and talked to Jack at the ACGG show about it. I wanted a dropbox magazine and went to Blackburns table and compared their metal with the action. Theirs was only opened up/lengthened to the front and would have meant cutting away on the feed ramp too much. I passed on it for that reason. I think I am correct on this but you may want to check it out.

Jim

this is a test

Jim Kobe-

I talked to Blackburn's about a year ago about bottom metal. (I think it was his "daughter" that I spoke with on the phone). I believe that they cold furnish two drop boxes for full length H&H cased rounds. One held four, and was lengthened *mostly* to the rear. The other held five or six rounds and was lengthened all at the front (a la Interarms and FN). I may not be remembering exactly, I was inquiring about a 404 box.

Bob

Thanks for the replies! I KNOW that you (customstocxs and jbelk ) are the end all to be all
BUT IF YOU TAKE THE time to read what I originally asked, then maybe you will get off
of you high horses and think about what I asked!! I am simply asking for some GOOD
info, not for something that I am supposed to be impressed by.

Let me start this over. I am looking for some info on re-barrreling a FN 30'06 to a caliber
of .375 or better. REGUARDLESS of COST. Just the info, not opinion. Opinions are like
ass@#$%*, everybody has one, and they all stink! If you don't have anything good to
say, then don't say anything at all.

DBKING said----

quote:

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Thanks for the replies! I KNOW that you (customstocxs and jbelk ) are the end all to be all

---

Well I'm sure glad you know *something*.

quote:

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BUT IF YOU TAKE THE time to read what I originally asked, then maybe you will get off
of you high horses and think about what I asked!!

---

I think better on horseback.

I read your badly asked question several times and tried to answer it to suit you....... Evidently not.

quote:

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I am simply asking for some GOOD
info, not for something that I am supposed to be impressed by.

---

Hmmm....good info?

How about "Yes, it can be done. What caliber? They're all different......and some way more expensive than others.....".

Are you more impressed by *bad* information?

quote:

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Let me start this over.

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Good idea.

quote:

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I am looking for some info on re-barrreling a FN 30'06 to a caliber of .375 or better.

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This is the confusing part.......you say ".375 or better". Better than what? What do you WANT?? If someone *wants* a .375 then nothing else is going to be as good, much less "better".

quote:

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REGUARDLESS of COST. Just the info, not opinion.

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That's better.

The cost it WAY more than you'd ever pay because I dont voluntarily work for anyone with your attitude, so if you want anything further write a big check first.........and then go to Hell.

quote:

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Opinions are like
ass@#$%*, everybody has one, and they all stink! If you don't have anything good to
say, then don't say anything at all.

---

OOpps. I talked out of turn. Sorry about that.

how does the saying go? ask a stupid question and you will get a stupid answer?