It's just marvelous for factory barrels, but I also use it on my match barrels. After a range session, I'll have four or five rifles on a bench, soaking overnight. I put an old ear plug in the chamber, give it a squirt, and put my finger over the muzzle for a minute. I think I could live just fine if I had nothing but Flitz and Wipe-out to clean with......

As far as cost, compared to brushes, patches, and cleaners, it's pretty darn reasonable. As long as you don't use it on your shotguns, that is. Doesn't work worth a darn on wad fouling, anyway. JMO, Dutch.

I think its OK but nothing to write home about. Seems like it cost a lot and I had to order it. When this can is gone I'll probably go back to Hoppes BR and Eds red.
I would buy it again if you could buy it off the shelf for 1/2 the present cost.

I wasn't that impressed with it at first, and then I tried the over-night method which does work better. Still, if I have a rifle that is quite fouled I will still use more conventional methods. I do keep Wipe-Out in supply as it is handy at times.

Chuck, I order it in from the manufacturer. - Dan

Well, it seemed to work pretty well on the copper inside the barrels of several guns. But, on the can it says "SAFE FOR MODERN GUNSTOCK FINISHES" and the directions say to leave it in the barrel, in a horizontal position, for up to 24 hours. I left it overnight, and some of the chemical leaked out of the hole on the side of the receiver. There is a permanent dark stain on the stock.

LOVE IT.

Yes, use a bore guide and a stock boot (like Midway sells) especially until you get the hang of how to not make a mess and get it all over. I hate all the rod peening and metal to metal brushing, etc. I think traditional bronze brush cleaning can be as damaging as anything..mostly from rod peeneing and rods carrying abrasive bits and acting like a file. There are ways to avoid this but I don't see those techniques very often at the range....SO Wipeout is DA BOMB in my book. And I think the cans last a long time!

I do use a few shooters choice soaked patches first to remove the surface fouling so the WIPEOUT can work on the hard gook.

You guys that are concerned about the price, have you factored in the cost of patches/brushes?

R

Using it for over two years now.

Love it for factory barrels that metal foul badly.

Custom barrels just don't need it as they clean easier with a few runs of a good metal cleaner.

Poor performance on excessive powder deposits. Pre-treat with a general solvent, e.g., H-#9, and the WipeOut works well.

Overpriced but convenient and labor friendly if one has time for the overnight treatment.

I keep it on hand as another cleaning tool to compliment my tools. Wouldn't consider it as a sole solvent.

-Holmes

I agree with those who use other solvents first for powder fouling. I run a patch with Hoppes through, let it soak a while, run patches through until most of the powder fouling is gone, then leave Wipe Out in overnight. I don't worry about forgetting it like I used to worry about the Sweet's.

I love the stuff...

Squirt it in, and walk away. Come back the next day and clean it out...If it's bad, just repeat.

If the foulfing isn't so bad, it only takes minutes/hours to clean.

I find it alot less offensive than many cleaners..I don't use gloves or anything.

I rarelyuse a brush anymore. I talked to the guy who owns the company/manufacturer on the phone. Hell of a nice guy, too.

I bought 2 cans form the reloadersbench.com

Started using Wipeout about two months ago, very pleased with this product. Have used on cm and ss barrels, works well on both. Agree that a "pre-treat" with another solvent is sometimes needed for bad fouling although Wipeout does make the overall cleaning chores much easier. KMule

Wipeout is great. It will get out copper that was almost impossible to remove before, unless watching a minimum of four football games on Sunday afternoon.

Please use gloves. I use the disposable latex gloves from the drug store (cheaper than thousands of patches). The active ingredient in Wipeout is "caustic" and can burn you, etc., which is a bad idea.

I just remove the stock so I don't have to worry about it.

Working on an alternate vehicle and should be marketing it soon. It is just a lot easier to use.

I use it, and the only time it was really messy was when I first got it and didn't know how much to use. I usually stand the rifle up on it's butt, stick my pinky finger into the chamber leaving a small gap for the air to escape, then shoot the foam down through the muzzle while keeping a good seal at that end. This fills the bore completely and keeps the foam out of the action. Set the rifle horizontally in your gun vice, wipe off the excess foam from the muzzle, and insert a bore guide just to keep it from running back into the action. Using this method, it never touches my stock.

Also, I have never gotten burned by the stuff. Some of you make it seem like you're handling sulfuric acid . I guess some folks just have more sensative hands others . Then again, I have never really sprayed it in my eyes. I guess that would burn a little. Any volunteers to test it?

Love it.

Is anyone using Wipe Out on stainless barrels regularly?

knobmtn

I use it on three rifles with stainless barrels on a regular basis, why? I haven't noticed any problems of any kind to date. - Dan

I like it as a copper solvent, but it doesn't replace good ol' Shooters Choice and a bronze brush for carbon powder fouling.

Add me to the I love it bunch...some hints: I use surgical tubing over the outlet and push the tubing down the barrel and squirt it carefully as the Wipe Out pushes the tube out as it fills the barrel, takes a few applications to get the hang of it...Leave it over night if you wish, but a couple of hours is probably enough..

It has never hurt my hands, but gloves are advised it appears..and I have never gotten any on my stocks...I use a dowell rod with a patch to plug the chamber....

Another very strong solution for copper washing is the old Bench resters "Blue Goop" which I keep on hand for real bad bores....A quart jar of 25% commercial amonia (druggist can find it for you) and mix with a cup full of Hydrogen Peroxide, some would toss a penny or bullet in the jar and turn the solution blue supposedly to activate it but thats not necessary as it will activate on the copper in the bore..When clean if you forget to oil the bore profusly it will rust your bore big time, so use care with this stuff and do not leave it in the bore more than 20 minutes at a time......

Measure the Diam. of a case neck,get a clear plastic hose with a bit bigger diam and push it in the chamber.
Throw away the cone shaped nozzle and push the hose over the spout on the can fill the barrel from the chamber end.
No mess, leave hose in gun and the clear plastic show's when the stuff stops working

Regards Martin

Thumbs up for a good idea Martin, thanks. - Dan

I sell Wipe Out and have it in stock @$11. I also have their product Flushout (20 oz) which is a good degreaser etc.
@$8.
Order off my web site www.hunters-hq.com
You can get a Tuffpak at the same time!

Harry, I clicked on your firearms list and that worked, but the "products" wouldn't.

I also use and highly recammend wipe-out. Although I must say it has never worked as fast at removing powder and copper fowling as advrtized, that is at least in MY rifles, but it does work well. It is IMHO pricey in that for $9.00 my first 8oz bottle of Barns CR-10 lasted me over three years and countless cleanings in four rifles, but because the bottle CR-10 comes in allows you to apply it as if using an eye dropper, I am extreamly carefull not to waist any CR-10 any time I use it.

The best solvent I have ever used to remove powder fowling is hands down Birchwood Caseys 2in1 Super Strength Bore scrubber. Just one of their 16oz spray bottles of the stuff has lasted me over four years.

I ruined a couple of guns by over cleaning. Now days, I use wipeout and a bore-snake. I couldn't be more pleased with the results.

Count me in for another "I love it" vote.

I usually do a "pre-cleaning" with Hoppes to get the major part of the powder residue, and let Wipeout do the rest. I found that I usually required 2 applications with Wipeout if I skipped the "pre-cleaning" stage. At $10 USD per bottle, plus GST and Customs, and a 2 to 4 week wait for new stock, I figured it was worth the initial scrub to cut the Wipeout usage in half.

I always use disposable latex gloves for wipeout, and sometimes even for good ole Hoppes#9 and Sweets. They are very cheap and you hardly know you have them on. Why not, I say.

Cheers,
Canuck

At least you guys can get the stuff, no one here in the Northern Territory has heard of it.

Bakes, Have you checked out getting it shipped/air-mailed? from the USA? Anyone who's tired of brushing, scrubbing, sweating, using to much elbow grease, or maybe ruining barrels ought to give Wipe Out a try. It isn't a quick cleaning but it sure is a good cleaning. Perhaps Wipe Out isn't the best cleaner out there but in my opinion it sure beats whatever is in second place!!! Best-o-Luck All