I've got a couple of barrels that need a new finish. Has anyone tried OXPHO-BLUE before? It looks simple enough to use but I would like other opinions than the ones listed on the brownells website. Is it more durable than other cold blues?

-Sam

I've used it a good bit for touch-up and complete refinish. It is another type of cold blue in that it is not a black oxide coating but a copper wash oxide. I believe it is more durable than the Birchwood Casey products, but still can't approach a good hot blue or rust blue. Streaks and splotches are always an issue. After rust is a problem too unless you seal it.

If you are looking for something economical, ask a local 'smith what he would charge if you brought the barrels to him already polished and ready for bluing. You could easily do that with some abrasive strips. The other option would be to rust blue it with a commercial solution. You could steam the barrels over a briskly boiling pot of water in lieu of boiling in a tank.

Bobster,

Thanks for your input. I've tried the birchwood casey stuff before and am not impressed with how quickly it wore off or how the color turned out. In general, this seems to be the case with all cold blues.

This stuff is advertised as being very attractive and durable. Snake oil I suspect.

-Sam

If you prepare your steel correctly, and spend the time necesary to appl;y Oxpho-blue you can get a very nice finish. It will take a bit of work to do. I use a lot of cleaned 0000 Steel wool and build the finish over several applications. Carding the blueing with steel wool between each coating.When It is deep enough and solid I polish it for the last time then apply Csewell Finishing oil and sealant. Splotches and streaks are from not having your barrel clean and not applying and even coat. It will take awhile to start to get a good blue and can be discouraging if you are looking for a single coat solution.

5MMEagle,

In your experience, how durable is Oxpho-blue?
Will it rub off from taking a gun in and out of a case or with a heavy touch during routine cleaning?

I am not interested in a one coat or some sort of quick fix treatment. I don't mind spending the time if the finished product is worth it.

Iv'e never used Oxpho Blue on a gun, but have used it on shop built tools in my machine shop. Some of these tool and fixtures have seen harder use than most firearms. The bluing has held up quite well. The method of application is to wipe down the machined surfaces with lacquer thinner. Then swab on the solution with a cotton rag. There will be spots that won't take color. Saturate a piece of steel wool with the solution and rub over the entire piece, keeping it wet at all times. When the color takes let it sit for a minuite or so. Wipe off with a clean rag and repeat with the steel wool. Repeat untill you are satisfied with the color, then finish by wiping down with a oiley rag.

Dave

It takes multiple applications, don't get discouraged. The last barrel I did took over 5-6 repetitions, none have taken less than 3 and that was on freshly-cut steel.

I use the Brownell's swabs that are made onto the end of small wire handles, a new one for each coat applied, and each swab is dipped fully down into the Oxpho-Blue GEL, repeat GEL, and rotated to ensure a good coating of fresh gel with each application. I swab on with long smooth strokes, plenty of the gel all over, and then burnish with degreased steel wool. Quite messy.

It'll look like a paint horse for the first 2-3 applications, then will even out and blend well if done properly. It's IMPOSSIBLE to degrease too well or too much, the product actually works much better on freshly-cut steel. If you still have streaks after 5-6 applications then you aren't getting the steel clean enough.

Certainly not as good as a conventional blue but certainly a lot quicker and easier for a single piece or 2. If done properly it actually looks quite good depending upon the polish.
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by 5MMEagle:
If you prepare your steel correctly, and spend the time necesary to appl;y Oxpho-blue you can get a very nice finish. It will take a bit of work to do. I use a lot of cleaned 0000 Steel wool and build the finish over several applications. Carding the blueing with steel wool between each coating.When It is deep enough and solid I polish it for the last time then apply Csewell Finishing oil and sealant. Splotches and streaks are from not having your barrel clean and not applying and even coat. It will take awhile to start to get a good blue and can be discouraging if you are looking for a single coat solution.

I agree with every word. Except I didn't use his brand of finishing oil. The oxpho-blue side of my Win 1885 looks no different than the original Miroku bluing job on the other side of the receiver. I am very pleased with its results and would recommend.

I'll add my support for Oxpho Blue as well. I've had very good luck with it.

As mentioned, the preparation process is the key to the best success. You simply cannot over clean the part to be blued. I'm get very anal about this step.

I use Dawn Oxy-Clean dish soap under the hottest tap water I can use. I wear rubber scrubbing gloves and wash the dickens out of the metal using a plastic bristled scrub brush. I repeat this process at least three times for approximately 4-5 minutes each time.

After scrubbing, I keep the gloves on (do not touch the part with bare hands) and dry it with clean paper towels ( I don't take the chance of a cotton towel having oils or fabric softner or something that could contaminate the metal). Much of the hot water will evaporate. I use a handheld blow dryer to finish it.

The work area should be a clean as possible. I use cotton balls torn in half and Q tips for application. I like to heat the metal with the dryer, then apply the Oxpho. Do not re-use the swab's. After each application I buff with 0000 steel wool that has been cleaned with Denatured Alcohol and stored in a sanitized plastic container.

The process is repeated until finshed.

I've also found the best results with the metal being very highly polished.

As I mentioned, I'm very particular about the preparation process, but the reults have been very satisfying.

Good Luck.

Along with the above mentioned preparation, gloves, cleaned 0000, carding, etc., heat the metal just hot enough that you can hold it in your hand for only a moment. The heat seems to "open" the pores of the metal. I use boiling water or heat over a propane space heater depending on the size of the part. I have been using O-B for over 10 years with very good results. Sometimes a steel casting (Win 94 receiver) will not take it. I use Brownell's Belgian Rust Blue for the cast parts.

Thanks fellas, I will be giving this stuff a try.

-Sam