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shells sticking in the chamber
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I have a rem 721 300 H&H,the shells stick in the chamber.I have about 7 hours of polishing the chamber with Flitz and the problem continues.
I reload for it and 7 other rifles with others being fine.
I reload at .022 off lands and grooves.
Any ideas?
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of daniel77
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How hot are you loading it, as bolt handles being hard to open, and shells sticking in the chamber can be signs of excessive pressure? What do the primers look like? Has this brass been FL resized, or just neck sized? It could be quite a few things. Need more info.
 
Posts: 3628 | Location: cajun country | Registered: 04 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Does new brass also stick in the chamber or just the brass you have resized? If it only sticks with the resized brass, then maybe it is the area just above the belt that isn't getting sufficiently resized.
 
Posts: 519 | Registered: 12 November 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of Westpac
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He didn't say the bolt handle was hard to open.

Drop-Shot, by "shell" am I to assume you are having trouble extracting loaded ammo, or, "shells"? Or are you having trouble extracting fired "cases"? There is a difference between the two and the cure will depend on which of the two definitions you are referring to.

To me a "shell" is a loaded round, so if it's a "shell", and the bullets are seated back off the lands, look to that area where the shoulder and body meet. The problem will more than likely be with your reloads.

If it is fired cases that are hanging up, look at your 'hard to extract' cases for signs of grabbing. The problem will more than likely be with the chamber. Look at the area immediately ahead of the belt. This is where 99 percent of extraction problems occur with belted cases.

And in the future, do yourself a favor when polishing your chamber and go with something a bit more abrasive than Flitz. Something that can be done within say... 3 hours. Big Grin


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I load well under max loads,not much more than my 30/06.I got this rifle from a friend that took it to Africa,shot once and the shell stuck.He felt it was the poor extractor the 721 was noted for.I sent it to a gunsmith that fits a 700 extractor,the ones the military uses.He said to polish the heck out of the chamber.I have about 7 hours of polishing and the problem continues.
The extractor is working well as if I force it the I can tear the case head off the shell,if I let it sit for a while I can extract it well.
It does it with new RP cases and my older once fired Winchester brass.Since I got it used I don't know how many rounds have been fired from it.Thanks for the help.
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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I forgot to add it sticks with a fired case.I shot 2 Winchester super 30 factory shells,it sticks also,one not as bad but the other stuck badly.
Also its not my reloads as my friends 300 H&H shoots them fine.
Westpac what do you recommend polishing the chamber with?Thanks for all your help guys.I was an auto mechanic for 38 years and was the guy folks called on for auto help,this has baffeled me and I'm using your knowledge to get through this.Thanks again.
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Sounds to me there is something more going on that a chamber wall that needs a little polish. I bought a used rifle in 25-06 that had the same issue but mine was a bulge in the chamber so I was resizing the case during extraction. A low pressure 300H&H should almost fall out with that much case taper. Might try coating the case in a black marker to see if the drag lines are linear or circular like a bulge.

I would consider rebarreling or at least setting it back a thread and recut the chamber.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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If your reloads are well under the max and factory cartridges stick also, you may have an undercut in the chamber. If this is true all the polishing in the world won't help the situation. You can have a gunsmith take the barrel off and check the chamber for undercuts. If it isn't too bad some polishing with emery cloth on a dowel (to keep it straight) may get the undercut out. If it's extreme then a setback may be in order.


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
 
Posts: 838 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of daniel77
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I agree with the previous two guys. Looks like you are gonna need to have a gunsmith take a peek and sort this one out. As said before, a 300 H&H is tapered and should therefore come out pretty easily if the chamber is proper.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
 
Posts: 3628 | Location: cajun country | Registered: 04 March 2009Reply With Quote
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I just heard from the gunsmith that did the bolt update.He too feels like its a chamber problem.
Question:I have heard match reamers can cut the chamber too tight in some cases,I was told.Is there a tool to insert in the chamber and hone the chamber walls?It really feels like its way too tight.
By the way,a no-go headspace guage will not close.I do minor things but this is way beyond me.Thanks again guys.
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Westpac
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quote:
Originally posted by Drop-Shot:
if I let it sit for a while I can extract it well.


Sometimes the appearance of the fired case can speaks volumes about the chambers condition. You should probably let a gunsmith have a look at it. If there is an under cut area in the chamber, continued polishing may further exacerbate the problem.

For touching up a chambers finish I use a green Scotch Brite pad wrapped around a piece of cleaning rod that has a slot cut in it to secure one of the corners.

The rod can be held by hand when spinning the barrel in a lathe, or it can be chucked in a drill motor and spun. When you are using the drill motor, you need a sufficient amount of the material surrounding the rod in order to keep the rod centered and out of contact with the chamber walls. Nothing crazy, a few 'in and outs' usually suffice. Be sure to wet the pad with a little cutting oil. And don't forget to wash everything down good afterward.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
By the way,a no-go headspace guage will not close

Does a no-go guage for a belted magnum measure just the belt? Or the belt and shoulder? Reason I ask Clymer lists one set of guages for normal belted magnums.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
quote:
By the way,a no-go headspace guage will not close

Does a no-go guage for a belted magnum measure just the belt? Or the belt and shoulder? Reason I ask Clymer lists one set of guages for normal belted magnums.


It measures the distance from the front of the belt to the bolt face.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Hey Malm, will the scotchbrite work for revolver chambers as well?


Larry

"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson
 
Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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quote:
It measures the distance from the front of the belt to the bolt face

Thanks that is what I thought.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Just got back from shooting the 300 H&H again.
There is a slight ring that goes about 1/2 way around the case 1/8 of an inch from the case head.Would that be an undercut?Not real deep,mabe just an indention.My fingernail can't feel it.
Also I was asked by a friend if a pull through finish reamers still available?
I have used one with a gunsmith friend many years ago in Lafayette La.
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Matt Norman
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Would (properly) rechambering to 300 Weatherby clean up the boo-boos in the chamber? Might that be the cheaper way to go?
 
Posts: 3293 | Location: Western Slope Colorado, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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I thought of that Matt,I have a Vanguard that shoots the 300 wby mag in small clusters,a hair over 3/4 of an inch was the best group,others vary between a hair over 3/4 to around 1 inch.That is my elk gun for here in Montana.
I would prefer the 300 H&H be fixed as soon as I can aford it as I own several other 30 cal mags.Thanks
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Westpac
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Scotch Brite pads work for just about everything, including cylinder chambers.

If the problem is in the area of the belt, then rechambering the gun might not solve it without setting the barrel back .220.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Westpac,do you have any idea what a setback and rechambering and indexing the sights would cost?I'm not going to do this right now,I have other rifles to hunt with this year.Mabe early next year.Thanks
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Drop-Shot:
Westpac,do you have any idea what a setback and rechambering and indexing the sights would cost?I'm not going to do this right now,I have other rifles to hunt with this year.Mabe early next year.Thanks


I charge about $160.00 to set a Remington with sights back and reset the headspace. If I reset the headspace using a Win Mag or a Wby Mag reamer, who's going to tell? Big Grin If you require a different than standard throat, that is extra.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Drop-Shot:
I have a rem 721 300 H&H,the shells stick in the chamber.I have about 7 hours of polishing the chamber with Flitz and the problem continues.
I reload for it and 7 other rifles with others being fine.
I reload at .022 off lands and grooves.
Any ideas?


How thick are the case necks?




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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DMB I measured the neck on both the Winchester and RP cases,can't remember the measurement but the RP cases are a little thicker,both stick.
I did as one of the fine posters on this forum asked and used a black magic marker and coated the shells and shot one,it stuck of course and the shinny part on the case was near the rear about 1/8 from case head.Not all the way around,just about 1/2 way.
Westpac,as soon as learn how to PM on this site I will get your address.If you are close to montana I may just take it to you.
I love this rifle and want to keep it 300 H&H even though the 300 win mag is slightly faster.
Thanks for all you guys help,very much appreciated.
 
Posts: 91 | Location: Helena,Montana | Registered: 26 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of daniel77
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To PM someone,

Go to the top of this, or any page and look at the tabs on the upper left, in blue

Click on the "Go" tab and then put the mouse over the "personal zone" in the drop down

The drop down menu revealed has "private messaging" about halfway down.

Good luck
 
Posts: 3628 | Location: cajun country | Registered: 04 March 2009Reply With Quote
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To PM "right left click" killpc on the person's name right in this thread. You will see an option to invite the person to a private topic.
simply click on it.
Thanks Daniel for catching my mistake. Typed too late last night and it hit me during coffee that I had done it wrong. coffee


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of daniel77
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quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
To PM " right LEFT click" on the person's name right in this thread. You will see an option to invite the person to a private topic.
simply click on it.
 
Posts: 3628 | Location: cajun country | Registered: 04 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Have a chamber cast made of the full chamber and include about 1 inch of the throat area. I used cerrosafe from Brownell's. This will let you compare the dimensions against the a fired case. I have had barrels come in that had a forced bead in the chamber from running a center into the end of the chamber and turning for some reason. Most 300 H H cases will show a slight swell just in front of the headspace .223 gage mark.

I made a chamber ring gage to check the cases for headspace for the .220 gage. Cut the gage about .230 depth and mark the difference. I have found mag cases with headspace as much as .010 short. So many things can be wrong.

Take it to someone that has lots of experience with chambers. I spent years working in a large shop that had about 4000 guns per year and 3 full time gunsmiths working. You see almost everything that can go wrong with guns.
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Drop-Shot:
DMB I measured the neck on both the Winchester and RP cases,can't remember the measurement but the RP cases are a little thicker,both stick.
I did as one of the fine posters on this forum asked and used a black magic marker and coated the shells and shot one,it stuck of course and the shinny part on the case was near the rear about 1/8 from case head.Not all the way around,just about 1/2 way.
Westpac,as soon as learn how to PM on this site I will get your address.If you are close to montana I may just take it to you.
I love this rifle and want to keep it 300 H&H even though the 300 win mag is slightly faster.
Thanks for all you guys help,very much appreciated.


Reason I asked about neck thickness is, I had a similar case sticking in the chamber problem with a newly built 7x57. I knocked out the first case shot from the chamber with a cleaning rod, took it home and saw heavy marks on the neck. So, I measured the thickness and it was between .0195 and .0200. I outside turned all of the necks to .014, and life got better; no more stuck cases in my 7x57.
Brass was RWS, which incidentally, was .007" too long when I bought it new. So, I had to trim all of the brass first, then outside neck turn it second..... thumbdown

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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