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Picture of Ropes
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Is there any reason not to use 1" drill rod to lap rings? I am asking about brand new drill rod I think it is $21 for 18".

Thanks Again, John

Yes I know I ask 10000 questions
 
Posts: 549 | Location: Denial | Registered: 27 November 2004Reply With Quote
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First off, you would have to machine in some grooves for the lapping compound, then drill and tap for a couple of handles.
I have seen several of these on eBay for around 20.00, might try that way first.
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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damm ebay ruins everything.. so much for my next shifts project Cool

thanks, John
 
Posts: 549 | Location: Denial | Registered: 27 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Sure...except for that price you might as well buy the kit from Sinclair.

I'd just go buy a 12" piece of cold rolled, take your mike with you and find a piece that measures close to 1.0". It would set you back about $2.00 around here for 1018. I've got the remains of a 6' bar of it I paid $15.00 from MSC.

You don't need grooves, and I wouldn't have one with grooves. The only compound you need will be on the bar or the ring...its not like it is going to "come out" of the grooves...
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: IN | Registered: 30 April 2004Reply With Quote
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fireball, so if you put the compound on the rod or the rings, what will it mic at as the rings are to be tight in order for the lapping to do anything? You don't lap rings loose. There is a reason for the lapping rod to have handles and the groove. Most good quality rings only need to be checked for burrs, it is rare that they need to be lapped, unless one wants to. just one persons opinion
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I would not use cold roll steel for that. One it is not to size, plus it is out of round. Get the drill rod you will be happier. I Machined mine from 1.125" stock then had it centerless ground. I do this kinda of stuff for a living so I have the machines handy.


People kill people, Not guns.
 
Posts: 83 | Location: Lapeer, MI | Registered: 19 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Crimp

I was thinking about tossing it up on a latthe and taking it to 1" then polishing it to 600 grit, think this would work? It is easier to buy one but what is the fun in that?
 
Posts: 549 | Location: Denial | Registered: 27 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Ropes,

Drill rod is a little more specific than what you need to be, especally if you are going to be turning this down anyway. Instead of "drill rod" think "rod". ANYTHING pretty much turned down to 1" will work! High carbon, low carbon, SS, bronze or brass, hell for what you are doing (lapping) even aluminum will work. Remember, all you want to do is lap the rings, not reshape them significantly.

So get whatever you want, if purchasing a piece of drill rod is what you are comfortable with, go for it! Lord knows you're never going to wear it out!


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7776 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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The principal of a lap is "stick to the soft, scratch the hard". Lapping compound should imbed into the lap and then the "rough" lap moves back and forth and wears down the hard part by scratching it. 1018 would work, but brass or something is better. You don't want drill rod for a lap. Dimensionally it may be the correct size, but it sure is not the best material
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Kisatchie National Forest, LA | Registered: 20 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of tiggertate
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I bought a 1" tractor pin at a farm store for a little less than 5 bucks. It mikes just under 1" and has performed well as a lap and as a line-up tool.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Some time back this same subject came up and someone recommended that the bar be turned down a couple of thou to make room for the grit. I find that with new rings you usually have to push a scope down into the bottom ring before it will contact the bottom. I think if you lap with a 1.000" bar you will remove too much material from the 9&3 o'clock position on the rings and they will be too loose.

Hart
 
Posts: 307 | Location: Vancouver, BC. | Registered: 15 July 2000Reply With Quote
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GEEZ guys, this ain't rocket science! Get a piece of cold rolled and lap with that. But! Don't stop there. Make sure you bed the scope to the rings and don't forget the release agent. You will be much happier that way 'cause the scope ain't round either.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5531 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Hello,
Paralysis by analysis!! Dead on about the bedding of the scope/rings. Not complicated and easy to do.
Favor Center!!
dsiteman

PS Should not be letting out all of those trade secrets you know!!
 
Posts: 1165 | Location: Banks of Kanawha, forks of Beaver Dam and Spring Creek | Registered: 06 January 2005Reply With Quote
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