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Scope shim Help!!
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I just had a Kenton Industries turret knob installed on my Zeiss Conquest scope.

When I set the turret knob at "0" or 100yards, I do not have enough elevation adjustment to go past 350yards. I called Kenton, and they said that I had to shim the rear ring or rear base to gain 20 inches or so in elevation...in other words...I need it to shoot much higher.

Do you think I should shim the rear base, and if so, what thickness of shim should I use to get this elevation.

Also what material do you recommend to make the shim??

How thick can I go without damaging the scope, since the shim will put it out of alignment.

Thanks guy's, I am a bit worried about doing this, so I would appreciate your help!!

Thanks!!!!!
 
Posts: 6080 | Location: New York City "The Concrete Jungle" | Registered: 04 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Rather than shimming the rings I would suggest using a taperred base.

There are some 20 MOA bases out there in a weaver type


Ray

...look up, and lift up your heads; for your redemption draweth nigh.
 
Posts: 117 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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two words.

Burris signature
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks guy's, but I want to stay with my Leopald dual dovetail base and rings...Any thoughts on what I asked about above??
 
Posts: 6080 | Location: New York City "The Concrete Jungle" | Registered: 04 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Wolf

Are you sure you have the correct bases?? Not being able to go from 100 to 350 seems a bit strange to me. With most any cartridge that's only 4 or 5 MOA and just about any scope should accomodate that.

Regardless, you can shim the rear base to get any amount of offset that you want. You sure don't want or need as much as 20 MOA and that could put a strain on your scope also. A .005 to .010" thick shim should do it.

I have used pieces of steel strapping, aluminum coke cans, or just about any other metal. You can also buy pre-cut and drilled shims from places like Brownells and maybe even Midway or Cabellas.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/catsearch.aspx?k...+shims&ps=10&si=True

Ray


Arizona Mountains
 
Posts: 1560 | Location: Arizona Mountains | Registered: 11 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Your concern about misalignment after shimming may be valid however, the misalignment, in all probability is already there. You need about .010" shim under the rear base at the attach point. If you are concerned about the misalignment, you should lap the rings. By the way, the Burris rings won't help unless they are the ones with the different size, height adjusting inserts.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Burris Signature are the rings with the inserts. I have them on three rifles and they work very well. You can get inserts of up to 20 thousanths for them, meaning that you can have up to 40 thousands adjustment total if you use plus 20 in the front and minus 20 in the rear. Plus you get the added benefit that you don't mar your scope when mounting it.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Wolfgar:
Thanks guy's, but I want to stay with my Leopald dual dovetail base and rings...Any thoughts on what I asked about above??


you can get burris signature rings in dual dovetail. that way you can keep your base. I would not shim the base or ring and clamp the scope down, and gouge the tube. not when burris has a perfect solution for less than $40. I have a scope misalignment issue on a rifle I spent about $250 on, and burris's pos-align system was the only real solution.
 
Posts: 1077 | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 22WRF:
Burris Signature are the rings with the inserts. I have them on three rifles and they work very well. You can get inserts of up to 20 thousanths for them, meaning that you can have up to 40 thousands adjustment total if you use plus 20 in the front and minus 20 in the rear. Plus you get the added benefit that you don't mar your scope when mounting it.


Ain't that what I just got done saying? GEEZIZZ


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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well, exuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 22WRF:
well, exuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me


You know, I hate to side with 22wrf but Kobe, he did specify signature rings which do utilize the inserts. Seems to me that you're the one making a big deal.
 
Posts: 583 | Registered: 28 May 2007Reply With Quote
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"GEEZIZZ" and "well excuuuuuuuse me" are hardly making a big deal. they are frikkin' funny.
 
Posts: 1077 | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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if you need to go to a tapered base, Farrell makes good ones for several rifles-

http://www.kenfarrell.com/
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Burris Signatures. The best and very easy with no lapping.
 
Posts: 174 | Location: Lakewood | Registered: 02 May 2006Reply With Quote
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Try tightening your front base first...completely....then the rear. I had a similar problem and that sorted it out. Also was Leupold bases. Worth a try and it costs $0.

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC
 
Posts: 1970 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
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