I'm going to have a smith(not sure which one) TIG a new bolt handle on my Mauser 98. I know some claim they keep the bolt lugs cool enough to where you can keep you hand on them while welding, but what about the cocking cam surface and internal threads? Will welding anneal them to where they wear prematurely? Is having the bolt re-heat treated necessary? I figure if I have to re-heat treat the bolt, I might consider having the receiver done as well for peace of mind. I shoot ALOT, so I just want to make sure my bases are covered on this build. Thanks for the advice in advance!

Templar

Welcome,


When I was doing it a good heat sink and heat control paste from Brownell's and I never had an issue with the cocking ramp.

My 2 cents if you have a good smith that knows what he is doing you don't need to retreat the bolt.

If the guy doing the welding knows what he's doing you shouldn't have a problem. But, if you want piece of mind, send the receiver and the bolt to Pac Met and have them both heat treated.

I don't; never had any problems. What make of receiver are you using?

I've actually got three options. And Oberndorf, a 1909 Argentine, and a VZ24. I actually prefer the VZ24's over the other two, just because they are strong and quality seems very consistent with them.

True; most 1909s are really soft, (but I use them anyway). so if you are putting a high pressure round in one, might think about heat treatment of the receiver. Not the bolt; they are fine. I prefer vzs for most everything. True Oberndorfs are much harder to get, but they will be excellent too.

I would think if the Smith has the skill to do the welding of the bolt handle right and then should the cocking notch needed treated...he could do it there in the shop easily and in short order. (not hard to do)

If you're going to use it a lot and/or using hot loads it's a good idea to have it re HT'd .Get it done by someone who knows how like PacMet .First lap bolt to receiver for full contact.Well worth the effort.

I'm not much of a believer in loading to high pressures. I prefer heavy for caliber bullets at moderate velocities. I rarely shoot over 150yds anyhow. I'm pretty sure that I am going to have Nathaniel Myers of Myers Arms do the work on this gun. He does excellent work, and is one heck of a nice guy. I'm sure he'll stand behind his work; so if I have any problems, he won't leave my high and dry. He a member of the forum too, "fal grunt" is his user name I think. Thanks for the replies fellas, I was concerned the heat treatment would be required, but it seems that many of you veterans of the trade have no trouble at all not doing so. Thank you again!

Back when I was welding handles on with oxy-acetylene, I always had to re-harden the cocking cam surface. This was easily done with the torch and an oil quench. I have used the same technique on Remingtons which were stiff-cocking. Just selectively harden the ramp and give it a polish. Really not a big deal. Regards, Bill

The only thing I remember from gunsmithing school ,CST, was to wrap the bolt with a wet rag !Use a fairly small torch tip.

The cocking notch may soften, but it will work.

The problem is seldom recognized and attempted to correct in the wrong manner.

The soft to whatever degree makes the bolt work sluggish on what should be a hard surface. It's always best to heat it cherry red and dip it, then polish it, and you can check it with a small 3 corner file if in doubt...It be hard as Woodpecker lips and smooth as a babys butt, and your bolt lift will be smooth and lighter. That's should be your first job in slicking up any bolt action IMO.