I had several of them 35 yrs ago but never messed with them trying to get them to shoot or make them more accurate. I looked at one today and the memories came flooding back. To me it is very slick and fits me better tany any semi- deer rifle I ever used. I'm tempted to buy it. But I wanted your opinions first.
Over the years I've heard they auto fire, jam consistantly and are so inaccurate you couldn't get a 4" group at 100 yds I don't remember any of that.
What is your take on these rifles ? Are there any little tricks to get one to shoot accurtely and function properly ?

Never owned one, but have shot a few. They seemed accurate enough for hunting purposes. In fact, one of the guys I hunt with shoots one. Always seems to go bang for him. IIRC, one has to make sure that the action bars are smooth and well lubed. I've seen a couple that had 'chatter' marks on the bars and those were the ones with functioning issues. Run the bolt back and check the mating surfaces between the parts that slide before buying any used model 100. Any galling or other markings are cause for concern. maxman

.358,
I have experience with this model.

The "auto fire" you mentioned is called "bumping." This happens more often while shooting the M100 resting on the bench. It can also happen if your resting it in the field in a similar manner. It occurs when the rifle recoil, in combination with the shooter's shoulder reaction, causes the trigger to bump the trigger finger, or vice versa, resulting in a second shot immediately following the first. Kind of a two for one squeeze but the second is a flier. A tuned trigger can sometimes increase the trigger sensitivity causing the rifle to be more prone to it, and the triggers are typically mushy regardless. This has been one of my disappointments with the M100 and M88, mushy triggers.

Poor case ejection can sometimes be attributed to the gas piston being worn out. Brownell�s sells replacements.

They can be glass bedded although it's not exactly like bedding a bolt action. They're bedded under the barrel at the stock forend. I don't believe it's common to find this done often. Also, check the fit between the receiver and the recoil lug behind it. It should be a tight fit with little movement. Check by hold the barrel in one hand and the pistol grip in the other and make your observation while gently applying a bending motion in one direction then the other. Be sure to keep the forward screw tight, if it's loose the receiver will wiggle more.

There is a factory recall on the M100 firing pin. It's not a big deal to have it replace and doesn't cost you other than your time and gas or shipping as the case may be. They're suppose to be marked after they've been retrofitted with a new pin. I don't recall at the moment where the mark is located.

I've been shooting a post64 M100 chambered in .284Win for the past three or four years. I clocked some factory rounds to establish a bench mark, one set of three averaged 2713 and the second set of three averaged 2728.

Let's just say I haven�t been overly impressed with it�s accuracy, another of my disappointments. I have Leupold M8 4x is mounted on it. When I can free up a 3-9x40 for it I'll see if the added magnification helps improve my groups.

Since those 6 factory rounds I've only fired handloads in it. I've found that by keeping the rounds clean, the chamber clean and the action oiled it chambers more often. Mine ejects reliably but, it doesn't chamber rounds completely all the time. It'll appear to be chambered but when you squeeze the trigger it doesn't fire, it goes click and leaves an ever so small dimple on the primer. If I flinch the shot the misfire makes it apparent. When this misfire occurs I�ve found in every instance the lugs aren�t quite fully rotated and seated. The same rounds will fire after I let the bolt freely slam on them again. This happens most often with the first and second rounds from the magazine when it's loaded with three or four rounds. This has been another disappointment and until I get this fully resolved I won't hunt with it. I plan to replace the springs to see if that's the solution.

If you're going to get one I'd recommend it be chambered for the .308. Those chambered in .284W are more pricey and I really don't believe there's a lot of benefit from the .284W over the .308 in this rifle and less so if you don't handload for it. I was surprised and disappointed to discover the average velocity of 150gr factory loads is slightly less than what I get with a 140gr handloaded bullet from my 7-08 A-Bolt Micro Medallion with its 20" barrel, with a lot better accuracy to boot. The ten grains difference between the two bullets is rather insignificant as I suspect is the difference between my handloads with Hornady 154gr SP bullets and H4350 compared to a .308 with a 150gr bullet.

I also suspect the velocity of the .243W is also impaired by the gas action. As with most any gass operated action there one must compromise between powder burn rate and bullet weight.

If your looking for a hunting rifle that is reasonably light for target distances within a 6" trajectory point blank range that may include jump shots and swing shots this or the M88 might be acceptable candidates. And to compensate for it's inferior accuracy one can squeeze of multiple shot quickly, and sometimes to quickly. So unless it's a unique and exceptional M100, it's not what you'd want to use to practice making clover leaf patterns from off the bench.

While shooting the M100 one must be careful not to let their fingers get in the way of the bolt handle travel.

The toe of the stock is susceptible to cracking off or chipping and wood around the magazine is relatively thin.

One last thing, if you want to keep your brass to reload plan on making yourself a brass catcher for the range. I�ve played hell chasing down my brass at the range.
bill