In my new-build Mauser action, I have the option of color case hardening. The action will be engraved first.

Will this effect the integrity of the steel of the action?

And if it gets worn off in time, how many more times can the action undergo the same process?

color case hardening, IF DONE CORRECTLY BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING, AND WHO CONTROLS THE HEAT PROPERLY, will not effect the integrity of the steel, mostly because the case is very thin, only on the surface, giving a hard outer case for protection from dings, etc., allowing core to remain unaffected by the process, and giving added rust resistance to outer surface, as well. Essentially, two factors, more than anything else, will cause the case colors to fade and wear off, friction from rubbing, and from the rays of the sun, so first of all, keep it away from direct rays of the sun as much as possible, and protect it with a coat of a high grade clear lacquer (that way, if you need to strip the coating later to re-coat it, simply soak (don't rub) the action, the laquer, until the old lacquer is off, and ready for re-coating. With mild steel, low carbon steel receivers, as found on double guns/double rifles, they can be annealed and re-color case hardened (always anneal first) any of a number of times with no problems (MUST BE DONE IN CONTROLLED HEAT FURNACE), though many misinformed, ignorant, or superstitious people will tell you otherwise. I haven't ever worked on Mauser actions, but am quite sure that they are NOT mild steel, but are probably some level of medium to high carbon steel, so can't tell you anything about color case hardening them. The firm in New York that does color case hardening is VERY familiar with all this--DO A GOOGLE SEARCH; do a huge amount of color case hardening, so talk with them, ask them these questions.

Blue it !!!

Wihat type of steel is the action made of? Impossible for me to make a call without knowing wht you are dealing with

From a functioal point of view you will almost assuradly be getting an action with lesser mechanical properties than if you through hardened it

I would never color case harden an action more than 3 times

Thanks for the replies.

The action is a modern Mauser-98, so I presume it is modern steel. So I'm assuming that case hardening it will give some degree of protection to the action (though I suspect it will wear-off in due time)?

The color case hardening will be done by a firm in Birmingham, UK; I cannot remember their name, but they do some work for Westley-Richards and Holland & Holland, so hoping they know how to do it properly!

Thet will need a false barrel and a false bolt to insure that the action does not warp !
My advise BLUE IT !!!!!

I have seen some awesome customs on here, and one in person, that were color cased. I don't know the metallurgy of it or anything except that some day I have to have one, I love the way it looks.

Red

Hello PD999
If the 98 like action is made by H&W, your assumption of modern still is incorrect. H&W use a low carbon, case hardening steel for there actions, with the effect that the action has to be hardened! Other vice it will be too soft for use.
However it depends on which calibre/pressure is used if colour case hardening is recommended as regular case hardening gives you a much deeper penetration.
Gerhard Hartmann of Hartmann & Weiss will give you exact recommendation if in doubt as they track the used steel by the serial number of the action.
Robert

quote:

Originally posted by Concho42:
Thet will need a false barrel and a false bolt to insure that the action does not warp !
My advise BLUE IT !!!!!

Actions are not heat treated as an assembly.
Any action may warp by heat treating and it's the experience of the heat treat shop that prevents deformation and warping.

Proper color case is very thin compared to a carborized case hardened action.

As for the alloy of the 98. as best as anyone can tell it's very close to a 1045 or 1095 steel depending on what action was tested and who interpreted the results. The fact is the steel does not fit a ASME grade exactly so the be we can do is call it a modified 1045 which is still incorrect. Either way this steel lends itself nicely to case hardening and if done by an experienced shop produces great results.

One needs to keep in mind that the mauser was designed around a softer steel (as compared to what we have today) and it's the design that makes the action strong. Heat treating makes it durable.

Contact www.turnbullmfg.com. Doug can do it and do it right.

I'm guessing that your action will be case hardened by Ray St Leger, the same man who does the case hardening and metal finishing for H&W themselves.

He is one of the best craftsmen in the field in the world. You can breathe easy and not worry.

Thanks for the replies guys. Have been away for a few weeks, so apologies for the late reply.

Robert and kcstott: It seems that case hardening this action leads to only superficial protection, whereas conventional hardening penetrates much deeper.

doubleriflejack: I'm now worried that though the effects of case hardening look fantastic, it may be disadvantaged by being only a surface treatment, is easier to wear off, be degraded by sunlight, and with possible warping of the action/bolt.

Concho42 and Marc_Stokeld: overall, I may follow your advice and just 'blue it'. So even if it gets beat and scratched on hunts, I can just re-blue it again (and again).

Mehul: yes, the case hardening was to be undertaken by Ray St Leger in Birmingham, England.

quote:

Originally posted by PD999:
Thanks for the replies.

The action is a modern Mauser-98 made by Hartmann and Weiss of Hamburg (an in-house action), so I presume it is modern steel. So I'm assuming that case hardening it will give some degree of protection to the action (though I suspect it will wear-off in due time)?

The color case hardening will be done by a firm in Birmingham, UK; I cannot remember their name, but they do some work for Westley-Richards and Holland & Holland, so hoping they know how to do it properly!

I have a Hartmann and Weiss catalogue from the 1980s showing some fabulous colour case hardening, and engraving, of their Mauser 98s. Absolutely stunning rifles, why don't you consult them or get them to do the process.

Hi eagle27, I was trying to work out the relative advantage of color case hardening vs. blueing on the durability and protection of the action (in addition to the beautiful effect).

From the comments so far, it seems for a 'working rifle', blueing is more practical; while for a 'safe queen', color case hardening is adequate protection.

quote:

The color case hardening will be done by a firm in Birmingham, UK; I cannot remember their name, but they do some work for Westley-Richards and Holland & Holland, so hoping they know how to do it properly!

St Ledger is probably the best there is. But things can, and do, go wrong with colour case hardening. That's why I would never, for example, risk re-doing my later father's 12 bore.

Personally? Yes it'll "look nice" but I actually don't like a bolt gun colour case hardened as whilst it may "look nice" it doesn't "look right"!

Blue it!