How about the spray on bake on type of metal finishes from brownells? Are they really practicle for home use? Wouldn't you need a large oven to accomplish this with a rifle? How durable are they?
Posts: 281 | Location: MN | Registered: 27 May 2001
I have had very poor results from the "Gun Kote" both in home use and done at the factory for a customer. It does not stay on well, particlularly on sharp corners. They suggested that we have all the sharp corners rounded so it sticks better. Yeah sure.
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001
I have not been impressed. For hard working salt water duck guns, my experience has been bad. Plain old Rusteloum works about as well. The teflon bake on stuff does not stick. The baking laquir is not much better.
You need to do the prep the same as a parkerized finish. Why not go ahead a send it off and have it parkerized. That IS a tough reust resistant finish.
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000
I tryed the brownells product worked like crap. I put some masking tape over it after it was baked to protect the finsh from some other work when I took the tape off the brownells finshed came with it. I would not waste my money on it.
Posts: 19712 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001
I use the Teflon-Moly from Brownells. I bead blast my barrels and actions, completely de-grease the metal, pre-heat the metal to about 125*F and usa common hand held hair dryer to keep the metal warm while spraying on the coating. Use light foging coats. The hair dryer flashes the solvent out of the coating and prevents sags and runs. Once the coating is completely dry, place the barreled action in the oven, set the temp at 350*F and allow the metal and oven to heat up together. When the oven reaches 350* start timing your cure time. After 45 minutes at 350 turn the oven off and allow the oven and metal to cool together. That's my method. I've got four rifle finished with the Teflon-Moly coating. These are hunting rifles and see use. To date, no chipping and the finish looks as good as when it was applied. I've used the dark gray parkerizing, SS gray, and flat black. I have a rifle in the works right now that will be finished in the earth brown color. I like the product and find it easy to use.
ditto for me. I covered a beat up M1 Carbine using three colors and the finish has held up for four years, now. the gun gets used a lot and I'm not particularly dainty with the way I treat it.
just as Arkie55 above, I preheat it, and bake just as he describes.
Quote: I use the Teflon-Moly from Brownells. I bead blast my barrels and actions, completely de-grease the metal, pre-heat the metal to about 125*F and usa common hand held hair dryer to keep the metal warm while spraying on the coating. Use light foging coats. The hair dryer flashes the solvent out of the coating and prevents sags and runs. Once the coating is completely dry, place the barreled action in the oven, set the temp at 350*F and allow the metal and oven to heat up together. When the oven reaches 350* start timing your cure time. After 45 minutes at 350 turn the oven off and allow the oven and metal to cool together. That's my method. I've got four rifle finished with the Teflon-Moly coating. These are hunting rifles and see use. To date, no chipping and the finish looks as good as when it was applied. I've used the dark gray parkerizing, SS gray, and flat black. I have a rifle in the works right now that will be finished in the earth brown color. I like the product and find it easy to use.
Ditto!! I sand blast/de-grease/spray/bake 2+ seasons no cracks chips or peels! The bbl vise dosent even mar it when re assembling the rifle I am sold on the gun Kote products!! I buy it in qts. from GK and air brush it on, thin W/ MEK or acetone
KG Gunkote is an outstanding coating. You just have to apply it properly: etch metal with 120 grit silica blasting media; parkerize the metal. Apply and bake on the coating. Adhesion and corrosion resistance are outstanding. I've applied KG many times myself. But try Mac's Restorations [search the web] if you don't want to do the silica blasting, parkerizing and baking yourself. Their technique, service and pricing are first rate.
Jordan
Posts: 3478 | Location: Northern California | Registered: 15 December 2003
So do you spray and bake 2 or three times, or do you spray one side, then let it dry, spray the other, let it dry, touch it up, and then bake it all at once?
Posts: 510 | Location: North Carolina, USA | Registered: 27 August 2002
I've used the Brownells teflon/moly paint on an old MarkX mauser. I didn't want to spend much money on refinishing the rifle. The 1st time I did it, I glass beaded it and stuck it in the oven. When I took it out, it just didn't stick very well. The next time I used sand to blast it with and cooked it twice. A 24" barreled action just fits in my oven. The finish has held up great! It's been very durable and another benefit is, I did the feed rails and it cycles very smooth.
Now keep in mind though, this is spray paint and it looks like it on a rifle. If you've got a composite stock and appearance isn't of great concern, it's a good product. I wouldn't even consider using it on a nice gun though.
Terry
Here's a couple of pics of a teflon/moly coated gun
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002
6 years ago I used a can of Brownell's baking lacquer on a shotgun. The paint has ~20% chipped off from little use. The baking process in my kitchen oven filled my house with vapors of Xylene, Toluene, n-Butyl Acetate, etc. and as a result I got brain damage. I have never used my can of gun-kote.
-- A society that teaches evolution as fact will breed a generation of atheists that will destroy the society. It is Darwinian.
Jordan, the one that was done for my customer was done by GunKote at their place of business. They have done it 3 times now. They can't keep the stuff on.
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001
I am sold on the gun Kote
