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Does anyone have any experience with this coating? I am going to attempt my first long gun with it and was wondering if there was any special prep that I have to do, or should do. I am going to apply this to a blued gun. The guys at Lauer said I should be fine with everything in their spray kit. "though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression." ---Thomas Jefferson | ||
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Remember; all these products called "coat" something or other, are just paint. Some two part and some one part but in the end, they are paint and the surface should be treated just as you would for a good paint job. On steel, the best surface is an abrasive blasted one. And clean and grease free is vital. Sometimes I blast and sometimes not; it works either way. | |||
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Here's what I've learned with it. First, and foremost, absolutely grease free. Otherwise will peel and chip. Aluminum oxide bead blast gives a rough surface for it to adhere to. That makes it a lot more durable. Use an airbrush or a miniature HVLP gun to apply it. Keep your pressure well regulated with an airbrush or you'll get color variations. Use thin coats and multi-coat it a few minutes apart. Stir the material well before using, and do the same each time you do a new coat. Cover the entire item you're coating with each coat, without refilling the gun. This will give you an even color. Don't try to cheap out and not get the special thinner. This stuff is hard to get out of your airbrush or paint gun. You can save a bit by doing a pre-rinse with lacquer thinner, but do the real clean-up with the special thinner. I don't like getting it on the bolt and other working parts, even a thin coat. It makes them not operate as smoothly. dave | |||
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 I used it several years ago. Dave hit it on the $$. I did use the bake on version.As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I dont have access to get the gun abrasive blasted. Would it work if I roughed it up with some sand paper? "though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression." ---Thomas Jefferson | |||
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If you have a compressor buy a $24 blaster and a bag of media. I thought Aluminum Oxide was shot in the 30-40psi range (been years so don't trust me) a small compressor will work it just needs to be allowed to catch up. Either let the grit go into the yard or lay a piece of heavy plastic on the ground and up the fence to capture most of it. I'm just not sure simply using sand paper will give you the roughness you need. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I've heard of guys doing it with sand paper, but the results were generally less than good. Blasting is really the best way to go. I've done the duracoat on a few guns were the owners wanted a specific color only done by them, but personally I prefer the results of Cerakote the appearance and durability were far better. For blasting I use 120grit Silicon Carbide at 100 PSI. Yes it's cocked, and it has bullets too!!! | |||
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DuraCoat instructions say to blast parts with aluminum oxide or silicon carbide, Parkerize and degrease parts before spraying. With that prep just about any paint will hold up well, but being a two-part epoxy paint, DuraCoat works well if the parts are prepped correctly. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Yes, it will still work even if you don't blast it but it will stick better and be more resistant to scratches if you do. Sanding it will definitely help; what you want to do is make the steel pores open to absorb the paint. Acid etch will work as well; use some Naval Jelly, which is phosphoric acid. | |||
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 OK now you have me trying to remember if I did in fact use Duracoat or Cerakote.  Oh well not worth trying to find my records. Either way I wouldn't go to the effort with only sand paper. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Thanks guys, I will try the acid etching. The gun that I am doing isn't getting much use, rather ugly right now. I just wanted to spruce it up a bit. If I wanted ultimate durability, I would definitely go with cerakote. However, for the price and the ability to support a local business, I chose duracoat for this project. "though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression." ---Thomas Jefferson | |||
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Then I would recommend Krylon spray paint. It's cheap, easy to find and holds up pretty well. I've used their b-b-q paint on ARs with very good results. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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I agree. If you don't like it, Krylon can be removed with paint remover, Duracoat has to be blasted off. You might consider a good rust blue sealed with automotive lacquer. Bob www.rustblue.com
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One of the things I've found when working with any of the firearm paints is heating the gun up with a heat gun before painting really helps eliminate runs. I either bead blast and/or parkerize before coating. As has been stated here before " it must be clean!!!" ...Tom SCI lifer NRA Patron DRSS DSC | |||
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