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one of us |
My brother has a Mexican Mauser that was sporterized to 22-250, with an E.R. Shaw pre-threaded short chambered barrel. He took the Rifle from Nevada to visit our brother in law in Kentucky. When he got there he was showing it off, as usual, when my brother in law noticed that the barrel had loosened. It was loose enough that they could unscrew it with there hands. This concerned me greatly, because I helped build the rifle at the Lassen Community College Gunsmithing school. I did the finish work and bluing of all metal parts. When I blued the action I did not take the barrel off. After the process, I noticed that some bluing slats continued to "weep" out of the connection of the barrel and action. I put Kreol Penetrating Oil on it for several weeks, until the "weeping" stopped. My question is, could this have caused the barrel to loosen? Or could the plane flight to Kentucky at extreme high elevation some how caused the barrel and action to loosen. My brother told me that when they unscrewed the barrel there was no rust, just a little bit of remaining bluing salt left. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks [This message has been edited by Big 17 (edited 12-14-2001).] | ||
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one of us |
That barrel was never tightened enough in the first place. Altitude has nothing to do with the barrel staying tight. When it is torqued properly the headspace might be tight & have to be adjusted. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
When you put the barrel on tight you may end up with insufficient headspace. I know this is going to sound "micky mouse" but, if it goes past the index mark consiter these ideas before you ream the chamber deeper. Pene the threads. Pene the shoulder. Use epoxy. Yep, epoxy. Put it on the threads and glue that sucker in place. If you have no sights to line up, go ahead and sinch it down. See if the bolt still functions. If so deepen the boltface.
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one of us |
If it is torqued properly, ain't no way it will come loose in the bluing tanks or from differences in temperature or altitude. The bluing salts creeping out of the barrel and receiver junction is due to improper rinse and neutralization at the bluing operation. After the hot caustic tank, the next step should be a cold water rinse, then at least 30 minutes in the heated neurtalizing bath, then at least 30 minutes in a boiling water bath, then into the water displacing oil tank for at least an hour. If you do not have access to the proper tools or a nearby gunsmith, send it to me with return shipping charges and I will set the barrel up at no charge. Give me an email if you need to do this. Regards, John (star@olypen.com) | |||
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one of us |
How you gonna fix it Ricks, peen it or glue it sorry I just couldn't help myself. To answer the question, it was not put on tight enough in the first place.. A barrel and action should always be blued apart IMHO. ------------------ | |||
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<Gary Rihn> |
quote: That is quite a gentlemanly offer. It's good to still see that some people are deep-down good. | ||
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